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Goldie's Restaurant

8422 W. 3rd St.
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323-677-2740
Critics' Pick
Best Of
Goldie's Restaurant +

Photo: Anne Fishbein A forkfull of beef tartare at Goldie's.

Details

  • $$
  • Vegetarian Friendly
  • Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner, Brunch
  • Street Parking
On the one hand, much of Chef Thomas Lim's cooking is intensely modern. On the other, the kitchen proudly employs almost primitive techniques, with a majority of the cooking done on an open hearth that burns both coal and wood. Fire is practically an ingredient at the restaurant, and when it's used well, the results can be stunning. The grilled cucumber with charred green garlic is a redefinition of a vegetable usually employed in a supporting role. Here it's the smoky star of the show, with paper-thin, crunchy ribbons of celery and a pool of cooling avocado creme coming together to create a meditation on the color light green, on water-heavy vegetables and our expectations of what they can be. —Besha Rodell

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