Like its parent in Redondo Beach, El Gaucho is a geographical warp, a reproduction of Argentina occupying a hectic stretch of Manhattan beach Boulevard. But you don't need to worship the Newell's Old Boys soccer club to enjoy the pristine deli connected perpendicularly to the market that prepares brick-size sandwiches and empanadas, steaming fist-size triangular pies with a flaky crust straining to hold the meaty interior.
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