Before K-pop, before pirate bars, before indoor driving ranges, there were the private rooms and tuck 'n' roll booths of Dong Il Jang, the cornerstone of modern Koreatown. And at Dong Il Jang was roast gui, thickish slices of well-marbled beef, sizzled in butter in a big, tabletop skillet. The trick is grabbing the beef off the hot metal after it has begun to caramelize but before all the juices have cooked out of it — which is easy enough to manage even if a waitress doesn't happen to be hovering — and lubricating it with a bit of sesame oil and salt.
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You may think there's nothing in Koreatown but barbecue. If you've found your comfort zone in the sort of small-plates, New American restaurants everyone's already talking about, you might think that going to unfamiliar Korean resta...