3515 Wilshire Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90005
Commissary +

Photo: Anne Fishbein


  • Mon.-Fri., 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-11 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Roy Choi is a master of clever minutiae, of sly jokes that make his restaurants delightful in unexpected ways. Which is why it's so amusing that much of the actual food at Commissary is retro in its approach. There are deviled eggs and shrimp cocktail on this menu, neither of them much different from what you might have ordered at a hotel restaurant in the 1950s. There's a grilled cheese sandwich and a tuna melt, both delicious but neither idiosyncratic in any way. When Choi invoked the country club image, he wasn't kidding — much of this food could be found on the menu of just such an institution. Cobb salad, anyone? —Besha Rodell Read our review of Commissary.

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