Commissary

3515 Wilshire Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90005
213-381-7411
Commissary +

Photo: Anne Fishbein

Details

  • Mon.-Fri., 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m., 5-11 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
If you're a lover of nature then dining at Roy Choi's Pan-Asian restaurant in the Line Hotel will be the meal of your lifetime. The vegetable-centric spot is immersed in a green house that's completed with a view of the city. There are deviled eggs and shrimp cocktail on this menu, neither of them much different from what you might have ordered at a hotel restaurant in the 1950s. There's a grilled cheese sandwich and a tuna melt, both delicious but neither idiosyncratic in any way. When Choi invoked the country club image, he wasn't kidding — much of this food could be found on the menu of just such an institution. Cobb salad, anyone? —Besha Rodell Read our review of Commissary.

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