Colonia Publica

6717 Greenleaf Ave.
Whittier, CA 90601
562-693-2621
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Colonia Publica +

Anne Fishbein Fideo, the house specialty

Details

  • Tue.-Thu., 3-10 p.m.; Fri., 3-11:30 p.m.; Sat., noon-11:30 p.m.; Sun., noon-9 p.m.
  • Beer and Wine
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • Beer/Wine
For some families, sopa de fideo is a hot cauldron of comfort, dished out as a cure for everything from the common cold to the harshest of hangovers. At Colonia Publica, Whittier’s hip Mexican gastropub, this sumptuous noodle soup is the focal point of its contemporary cantina fare, offering a fully customizable bowl. Helmed by chef Ricardo Diaz — founder of the taco mecca Guisados — the restaurant is a distinctly Angeleno affair marrying casual Mexican eats with ingredient-forward California cuisine. Expect small plates such as a crispy chicharron quesadilla with snappy pickled onion; smoked salmon tostada topped with a sunny-side-up egg; or choriqueso tacos cradling homemade chorizo on a hand-crafted tortilla. Dodge a decorative cactus or two and belly up to the bar for a selection of micheladas, pairing amber craft brews with mixes ranging from the classic clamato to the spicy jalapeño aguachile, which is like a swift zonkey kick to the face. But it’s the celestial soup that brought you here. After all, fideo is a universe in a soup bowl. It’s the realm where you can play God, imagining the ingredients of the ecosystem you’re about to devour: perhaps a grove of cilantro, an earthy crumble of chorizo or a hard-boiled egg bobbing in the beef broth like a wayward iceberg. Behold your creation. Then, like the deity you are, deliver ravenous wrath with each spoonful and scoop of the noodly goodness. It assuages even the most existential pangs of hunger; you can’t control fate, but a fideo is a world all your own. And in the remnants left behind, maybe you can read your future in the bottom of the bowl. —Drew Tewksbury

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