Church & State

1850 Industrial St.
Los Angeles, CA 90021
213-405-1434
Best Of

Details

  • Sun., 5:30-9 p.m.; Mon.-Thu., 6-10 p.m.; Fri., 6-11 p.m.; Sat., 5:30- 11 p.m.
  • $$$
  • Wheelchair Accessible, Patio/Sidewalk Dining
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • Full bar
  • Street Parking
  • Reservations Recommended, Reservations Accepted, Online Reservations Available
Everybody knows Church & State. It's that loud bistro decorated with strings of Christmas lights year-round. Walter Manzke used to cook there. It rules its street of luxury lofts, and it is nearly as hard as ever to get a table on a Friday night, even when the tables spill over onto the sidewalk. There's still a pretty serious cocktail menu, pre–Prohibition-influenced stuff with a modern twist, heavy on the absinthe. The wine list, although spendy for this part of town, is rich in the biodynamic, high-acid French wines that go so well with bistro food. And if you liked Manzke's cooking, you're going to like Jeremy Berlin's cooking, too — pretty much the same cooking, actually, with the fried pig's ears, roast marrowbones, duck prosciutto and cheesy onion soup that Manzke made so popular, nicely executed, with a killer dish of herring and potatoes instead of the garlicky escargots. Some of the three-star restaurant touches may have faded away, and Berlin is probably a bit less deft than Manzke, but Church & State is still the best bistro east of La Brea.

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