Our Critics' Picks



727 N. Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Critics' Pick

Photo: Anne Fishbein


  • Sun., 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Tue.-Sat., 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
  • $
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • No Alcohol
  • Takeout
  • Street Parking
If your experience with rice bowls is limited to what you've had from the drive-thru at Yoshinara, you may be befuddled by Choi's weighty, baroque constructions that splice the flavors of L.A. into great splooshes of combinatorial DNA — rice with pickled watermelon radish, sautéed ong choy, peanuts, crumbled cotija cheese, a fried egg and a crisp, spurting slab of pork belly rubbed as lovingly with Korean chili paste as a '64 Impala show car has been with lacquer. The fusion of Korean, Thai, Chinese, Japanese and Indonesian specialties are complex enough to make the loco moco seem as simple as a waltz. Choi isn't elevating Los Angeles street cuisine to the level of fine dining; he's using the language of fine dining to exalt the food of the street.

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