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Chego

727 N. Broadway
Los Angeles, CA 90012
323-380-8680
Critics' Pick
Chego

Photo: Anne Fishbein

Details

  • Sun, Tue-Sat 11am-11pm
  • $
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • No Alcohol
  • Takeout
  • Street Parking
If your experience with rice bowls is limited to what you've had from the drive-thru at Yoshinara, you may be befuddled by Choi's weighty, baroque constructions that splice the flavors of L.A. into great splooshes of combinatorial DNA — rice with pickled watermelon radish, sautéed ong choy, peanuts, crumbled cotija cheese, a fried egg and a crisp, spurting slab of pork belly rubbed as lovingly with Korean chile paste as a '64 Impala show car has been with lacquer. The Korean/Thai/Chinese/Japanese/Indonesian Chego specialties are complex enough to make the loco moco seem as simple as a waltz. Choi isn't elevating Los Angeles street cuisine to the level of fine dining; he's using the language of fine dining to exalt the food of the street.

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