If you've spent any time in L.A.'s excellent Vietnamese noodle shops, Blue Hen's tasty but underdeveloped pho and bland chicken curry may leave you yearning for Rosemead or Little Saigon. But while you will probably not experience anything akin to culinary epiphany, this Eagle Rock kitchen is an unusually pleasant place to linger, listening to old soul tunes on the sound system and jacking yourself up on glasses of super-strong Vietnamese filtered coffee with condensed milk. Big bowls of chicken porridge seem custom designed to soothe mornings-after, and delicious Vietnamese sandwiches of turmeric-glazed chicken and herbs are a sweet, spicy variant on banh mi.
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Photos by Anne Fishbein The Los Angeles area is rich in restaurants that provide a reasonable facsimile of the Vietnamese restaurant experience, with abundant tripe and long-simmered pho and subtle variations on noodle dishes that e...