Baran's 2239

502 Pacific Coast Highway
Hermosa Beach, California 90254
424-247-8468
Critics' Pick
Best Of
Baran's 2239 +

Anne Fishbein Indian-style Scotch egg with lamb sausage, curry jus and cucumber salad

Details

  • Sun.-Thu., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.
On most nights at Baran's 2239 in Hermosa Beach, you'll find first-time restaurateurs and brothers Jonathan and Jason Baran pouring drinks or greeting diners while their collaborator, chef Tyler Gugliotta, runs the kitchen. Though the waitstaff at Baran's 2239 is quick to point out that much of the menu's produce hails from the chef's family farm, it soon becomes apparent that Gugliotta's inventive global cooking doesn't need to hang its hat on the farm-to-fork ethos alone. For a local hangout, the food at Baran's 2239 is progressive, delicious and unexpected. The compact, one-page menu pulls you in immediately. Gugliotta's version of focaccia is soft and supple, with a dense strata of Parmesan cheese and a side of whipped "umami butter," an indulgent spread supercharged with sun-dried tomato, capers and olives. A hamachi crudo, tricked out with a colorful aji amarillo and passion fruit, nods toward both Nobu and Peru, while Caribbean-leaning jerk chicken wings come with a sweet mango dipping sauce to tame their habanero-powered heat. The brothers Baran were shrewd enough to realize they'd wrangled a chef brimming with creativity and the skills to back it up, then had the prescience to let him cook whatever he wanted. Read our full review.

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