Allumette - Closed

1320 Echo Park Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Allumette +

Photo: Anne Fishbein Szechuan pork dumpling with cured salmon roe at Allumette.

Much of young chef Miles Thompson's food astonishes. In the crudo section, a shimaji dish with miso, blood orange and kiwi is bright and standard if you like fruit with your fish, but the live scallop tartar knocked me on my ass. Served with strawberries, black truffle and elderflower vinaigrette, it was so luminous and tart that it was like a fruit-and-seafood version of Sweet Tarts. Szechuan pork dumplings, delicate and savory, sit in a black vinegar sauce with tarragon and come topped with fat salmon roe. Cavatelli with uni ragu and fromage noir is delicate and lovely, English peas and braised mushrooms giving it lightness and the distinct flavor of spring. It's a dish you might come across at one of the best restaurants in the world — making it frankly confounding in this average brown room with a pretty cocktail bar on a slightly sleazy strip in Echo Park. —Besha Rodell

Related Stories (6)

  • The End of Allumette
    1 year ago by Besha Rodell

    Yesterday afternoon the news came in that Allumette, the Echo Park restaurant, will close at the end of next month. It's a surprise, certainly, but also almost as much of a surprise that the restaurant lasted as long as it...

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    Late night happy hour isn't the newest trend in the world, but it is a trend that is steadily growing, particularly in Los Angeles. We have a theory about this: Most other cities don't really need happy hour at 10 p.m.  Why? Be...

  • The Undercover Vegetarian: Allumette
    2 years ago by Besha Rodell

    During my last visit to Allumette, the Echo Park restaurant featured in this week's restaurant review, there were exactly two meat-free items on the menu. Chef Miles Thompson serves a short, ever-changing menu, and there are times w...

  • This Week's Restaurant Review, The Condensed Version: Allumette in Echo Park
    2 years ago by Besha Rodell

    This week, our restaurant review considers Allumette in Echo Park, the new spot from young chef Miles Thompson. To get the full rundown on this somewhat astonishing restaurant you should read the full review. Or turn the page for a ...

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