Alimento

1710 Silver Lake Blvd.
Silver Lake, CA 90026
323-928-2888
Critics' Pick
Alimento +

Anne Fishbein Whole grilled orata with Calabrian chili, beans, pesto Trapanese

Details

  • Sun. & Tue.-Thu., 5:30-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m.
  • Vegetarian Friendly, Local Ingredients
  • Dinner
  • Beer/Wine
  • Street Parking, Valet Parking
When I originally reviewed Alimento in September 2014, I could tell that Pollack had created something special. But I also had a few complaints. The room was deafeningly loud, and the food was in some instances searingly salty. It certainly didn't strike me as one of the best restaurants in the city. Two and a half years later, however, Alimento can absolutely bear the weight of that distinction. The meals I've had more recently there have been head-spinningly, stunningly great, so much so that at first I wondered if I'd stumbled into a fluke of lucky ordering and high kitchen morale. But subsequent meals have had the same magical quality. The mortadella pig in a blanket and the escolar dishes have lost none of their shine, and newer menu additions live up to those early successes' precedent of greatness. There's a bracing, Italian-leaning Caesar salad that makes glorious use of white radicchio's natural bitterness and its compatibility with sharp cheese. Pastas remain flawless. The braised-lettuce bruschetta utilizes the creamy smoosh of burrata in a way you've never experienced, and that's saying something in a town overrun with burrata-on-toast variations. Is it still too loud? Possibly, though Pollack has made an effort to implement sound-absorbing solutions. Either way I didn't notice; I was too busy being thrilled by the food. —Besha Rodell
Read our full review.

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