Adana Restaurant

6918 San Fernando Rd.
Glendale, CA 91201
818-843-6237
Adana Restaurant +

Anne Fishbein Pasus dolma and kashk-e-bademjan

Details

  • Daily, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.
  • $$
  • Wheelchair Accessible, Kid Friendly, Takeout
  • Lunch, Dinner
  • No Alcohol
  • Parking Lot Available, Street Parking
  • Reservations Not Necessary
The dining room at Adana, an Armenian-American-Persian-Turkish-Georgian restaurant in Glendale, is quite often empty, which is cause for great consternation. Unlike some of the more popular Middle Eastern restaurants in this part of town, this place doesn’t feel quite so much like a 1980s banquet hall, and the food is slightly harder to define. But it’s also much, much better than most of its competition. For kebab lovers, the grilled meats over rice are tender, the rice is fluffy and fragrant, the barbecued tomato you can (and should) order on the side is smoky and flavorful. Many devotees of the place come here for kebabs, and the kebabs alone would be reason enough to visit. But chef and owner Edward Khechemyan has more to offer than just the standards. Order the pasus dolma, an Armenian version of the ubiquitous rice-and–grape leaves dish, and you’ll be rewarded with a delicious jumble of lentils, kidney beans, garbanzos and tomatoes, wrapped in tender cabbage leaves with a hint of pickle and spice. Try the kashk-e-bademjan, an Iranian dish that usually comes as a pasty eggplant spread topped with whey and fried shallots but is served here as thin slices of fried eggplant cooked to their sweet, sticky essence. If you stick to the appetizers (and it is a wholly fulfilling way to eat if you do), your meal will almost certainly be vegetarian and you’re unlikely to even notice. What you will notice is that this is perhaps the most interesting, soulful Middle Eastern food around. —Besha Rodell
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