Birriera Chalio. Goat: The other, other, other white meat. If youre in the mood for a lot of goat, practically goat by the yard, it might be difficult to do better than a long, goaty lunch among the mounted animal heads at the original Birriera Chalio on Calle Primero, where the waitresses will bring plate after plate of the restaurants signature Zacatecas-style birria chewy riblets and soft chunks of shoulder and muscley knots of leg meat until you practically have to beg them to stop. Hair of the dog? No, hair of the goat. Birriera Chalio on Calle Primero, 3580 E. First St., Los Angeles, (323) 2685349. Mon.Fri. 7 a.m.8 p.m., Sat.Sun. 7 a.m.9 p.m. Beer and wine. Lot parking. Takeout. Latin. JG $
El Parian. El Parians sweet, mild goat meat has crispy parts and stewy parts, just like carnitas. It clings to the tiny goat ribs, which you suck, then spit back into the bowl. The broth, basically amplified pan drippings, is rich essence of goat and the single best Mexican dish weve eaten in Los Angeles it is the soul of Guadalajara. Theres a thicket of cilantro to flavor the broth, a heap of chopped onion, limes to squeeze and a fat radish to sweeten your breath. The thick tortillas are warm and smell of fresh corn. The beer is very cold. El Parian is supposed to be somewhat aphrodisiacal and a tonic for hangovers too, which is a special bonus on a Sunday morning. 1528 W. Pico Blvd., downtown, (213) 3867361. Mon.Fri. 8 a.m.9:30 p.m., Sat.Sun. 7 a.m.9:30 p.m. Beer. Cash only. Lot parking. Mexican. JG ¢
Jinju Gomtang. In Seoul, there is reputedly a Hangover Alley, a narrow downtown street lined on both sides with restaurants dedicated to the art of the curative tonics known collectively as gomtang. In Koreatown, this 24-hour café is devoted to pale-bone broths garnished with oxtail or sliced brisket, as bland as oatmeal and twice as soothing. But the real specialty of the place, a soup you might consider having for lunch even if you werent on the wrong side of a bottle of soju, is the spicy haejanguk, a pottage of cabbage, chiles, scallions, garlic in a funky-fresh cow-part broth, garnished with little clots of blood and ready to come alive with the addition of a little sea salt and a lot of the restaurants house-made chile paste. 610 S. Western Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 3836789. Open daily, 24 hours. Full bar. Lot parking. AE, MC, V. Korean. JG $
Millies. As several generations of Silver Lake hipsters can attest, Millies was designed to cure hangovers the way that penicillin was designed to cure syphilis, a hot, crowded, underventilated slice of culinary purgatory that cuts straight to the heart of the problem. Swear by the grease antidote? Millies chicken-fried steak with 40-weight gravy is there for you. Believe in a shock to the system? An extra-spicy Devils Mess omelet, which comes with antitoxin doses of everything in the kitchen, may do the trick. Bacon and strong coffee the ticket? Youve come to the right place. For better or for worse, Millies cooks breakfast like your dad used to make. And as they say, Father knows best. 3524 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, (323) 6640404. Open seven days, 7:30 a.m.4 p.m. V, MC only. No liquor. Street parking. Takeout. American. JG ¢
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Panns. Every Angeleno has a secret backdoor shortcut to the airport, and Panns is smack on the route of at least two-thirds of them. Its a grand 50s coffee shop right on the triangle formed by the intersection of La Cienega, La Tijera and Centinela, a bright, neon-lit fortress of patty melts, Dreamburgers, banana splits and pie, bottomless cups of coffee, and a twangy soundtrack that veers from Duane Eddy to Elvis and back. Mornings see customers from all over Los Angeles, some of them bleary-eyed from the previous nights festivities, who cant stay away from the sugar-cured ham, the thick blueberry pancakes or the big plates of steak and eggs. Panns is a coffee shop, not a temple of cuisine, but we all owe it to ourselves to stop by for a plate of chicken from time to time. 6710 La Tijera Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 6701441. Open daily 7 a.m.11 p.m. AE, MC, V accepted. Beer and wine. Lot parking. American. JG $
Tamales Lilianas. Across the street from El Mercado, where one occasionally overindulges on Bohemia and live mariachi music at the enchilada dives on the top floor, Lilianas is an especially soothing café, a place of fortifying champurrado, spicy peanut mole and tamales legendary in East L.A., a place to restore yourself over a weekend bowl of healthy cocido, tripe-laden menudo or bright-red posole. How much chile do you add to your soup, you may ask? However much it takes to calm the fires in your soul. 4619 Cesar E. Chavez Ave., East Los Angeles. (323) 7800989. Mon.Fri. 8 a.m.9 p.m., Sat.Sun. 7 a.m.9 p.m. No alcohol. ATM cards, cash. Takeout. Lot parking. Mexican. JG ¢
Tommys. Theres no way around it: Eating a Tommyburger is an aggressive act. You cant stop at Tommys and expect to go back to the office; you cant inhale a Tommyburger at one in the morning and expect your spouse to kiss you when you finally stagger home, no matter how persuasively you explain that the chili pre-emptively filters the toxins out of beer. A Tommyburger is an uncouth thing, a sloppy, stinking mess, oozing chili and raw onion, that takes over your system for the better part of a day. Tommyburgers cant really be considered car food, unless youre okay with orange grease spots on the upholstery and an aroma that lasts longer than most warranties, but the Hollywood branch, a drive-thru exquisitely positioned right off the Hollywood Boulevard exit of the 101, makes it possible to coast in off the freeway, load up on chili burgers and cruise back toward downtown in a scant minute. 5873 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 4673792. Open daily, 24 hours. No alcohol. Lot parking. ATM cards, cash. $4.20$5.50. American. JG ¢
Yung Ho Tou Chiang. An excess of mai tai addled your brain? At Yung Ho Tou Chiang, the breakfast protocol is easy. You order some soy milk, then some stuff to go along with it: flaky buns stuffed with sweet, simmered turnips; steamed buns filled with spiced pork or black mushrooms; crusty fried pies stuffed with pungent messes of sautéed leek tops; steamed pork dumplings bursting with juice. The traditional accompaniment to soy milk is a long, twisted, light-as-air cruller, and Yung Ho does it well. For another buck or so, you can get the cruller smeared with a salty paste of pounded meat and wrapped inside a cylinder of sticky rice, simulating the texture of a good sushi roll. 533 W. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel, (626) 5700860. Breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days, 6 a.m.6 p.m. Beer. Lot parking. Cash only. Food for two, $5$10. Chinese. JG ¢
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