OK, OK, it's a bit of a stretch to call a burger at an upscale Asian restaurant "lowbrow," especially considering the abundance of fantastic, legitimately proletariat burgers in L.A. But the Spice Table's burger is, in its soul, a fast-food burger — or at least it's modeled on one. Two patties come draped in Kraft American cheese with pickles, lettuce, tomato and mayo. It has nothing to do with those giant "gourmet" burgers that upscale joints like to serve. The fact that Spice Table's burgers are made from ground short rib, the fact that the pickles are made with a curry brine, the fact that the mayo has shallots in it, only serves to make the flavor of this burger more intense. Oh, and the sambal? It's like the spicy icing on a meaty cake. It's totally reminiscent of fast food, thus stoking your childish lust yet totally upgraded in the ingredients department — which makes a burger we can be proud to call lowbrow. 114 S. Central Ave., dwntwn. (213) 620-1840, thespicetable.com.