We like the general idea of a Po' Boy sandwich, typically interpreted as fried seafood on a French roll. But we crave an egalitarian, L.A.-ified version — one with more antioxidants and fewer calories that's still top-notch delicious. The Vegan Po' Boy at simplethings is just that. The $8.50 sandwich stars cornmeal-coated tofu, so it has the texture of a fried oyster, without the oh-dear-I'm-chewing-a-bivalve factor. (If that's an issue for you.) The tofu is served on a ciabatta bun with electric-pink pickled onions, arugula and a light-handed spread of vegan remoulade — effectively doubling the piquancy. It's startlingly good, and you should try it. There is no one firm definition of a po' boy — it has to have shrimp! Roast beef! Gravy! Pickles! — so why not this brilliant contemporary variation? It's certainly a version that all Angelenos, vegan or not, can love. 8310 W. Third St., Mid-City. (323) 592-3390, simplethingsrestaurant.com.

—Rachael Narins