What a strange blessing that Los Angeles now has enough German sausage shops to spark a crosstown currywurst rivalry. Berlin Currywurst kicked off the trend's local manifestation, introducing Angelenos to the previously unknown pleasures of Germany's ubiquitous street food: grilled and sliced sausage drenched in curried ketchup. The mix-and-match menu of eight sausages and four flavored ketchups allows for continual creativity. Paprikawurst in a snappy casing topped with jammy Mitte? Or maybe a jalapeño and cheddar scharfe kasewurst paired with garlicky Alexanderplatz? There are even a couple tofu options for vegetarians. Everything is served with a side of rustic brown bread, but don't miss the excellent fries: thick potato stalks double-fried so they're brown on the outside, still fluffy on the inside. This small but welcoming eatery in the middle of Sunset Junction is perfect for the neighborhood. It's unpretentious, affordable and hearty. There are no complicated menus appended with overly long ingredient provenances. This is meat and potatoes for the modern city. 3827 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake. (323) 663-1989, berlincurrywurst.com.

—Elina Shatkin