Best of L.A. -- Food and Drink
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Food & Drink

Best Noir Breakfast (1940s) Los Angeles 2010 

Nick's Cafe

Before yuzu vinaigrettes, before acai margaritas, before pigs whose lineage is better-traced than the Queen of England's, there was ham and eggs, which so powerfully signified contentment in Los Angeles that a Depression-era political movement was named for it. Ham and eggs on Thursdays — what more could a man want? So it is not much of a surprise that Nick's Café, the best-preserved '40s diner in the downtown area, a breakfast place crowded with policemen before 6 a.m. and shut up tight before 2, should be famous for its version of the dish — decent fried ham, carefully cooked eggs, hash browns: period. There's a jar of blender salsa if that's your sort of thing. Pictures of trains. Diner coffee — no organic, shade-grown, fair-trade, single-finca joe allowed on the premises. 1300 N. Spring St., dwntwn. (323) 222-1450, nickscafela.com. —Jonathan Gold

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