A good piece of pie often will remind you of your childhood or, at the very least, give you a glimpse into a childhood you wish you'd had. Apple pie tends to get a lot of credit in this arena, and despite an old, popular saying, blueberry pie may actually be the most American. But when it's all said and done, a properly made banana cream pie might be the most deeply comforting of them all. Los Angeles has many different versions, and they're available year-round. But as much as we enjoy a modern take on a classic ? like the individually portioned one on the dessert menu at Suzanne Tracht's Jar , sweet, mellow and drizzled with a light caramel sauce ? we most enjoy an actual classic. So when it comes to true satisfaction, it is seemingly impossible to look beyond the one at a 63-year-old institution: The Apple Pan. A tender crust, firm slices of fresh banana, sweet yellow custard and a thin layer of soft cream. Their apple pies and hamburgers do appear to be more popular, but sometimes it really feels like they shouldn't be. 10801 W. Pico Blvd., W.L.A. (310) 475-3585. ?Noah Galuten