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Food & Drink

BEST IT’S A SMALL, SMALL SUSHI WORLD Los Angeles 2009 

A'Float Sushi

Look at the cute little sushis coming down the line. Whoever invented conveyor-belt sushi is a genius. At Frying Fish in Little Tokyo, the delectable bits of tuna and mackerel and yellowtail travel on UFO-ish covered cups moved by a clinking belt, a miniature version of an airport baggage-claim carousel. A'Float Sushi in Pasadena takes it one step further: The sushi travels on lacquered boats down a watery river, the edible version of the It's a Small World ride at Disneyland. Around and around they go, the tiny boats laden with their cargo of spicy tuna and octopus salad and salmon avocado and honey-walnut shrimp-tempura rolls. You grab them as the boats sail past your spot at the central table, sort of an inverse smorgasbord. A tiny bushel of edamame helms each ship. This isn't just dinner, it's high art: the baroque, haiku, post-post-post-Modern version of deep-sea fishing.

—Gendy Alimurung

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