Sang Yoon is a perfectionist with superstar-chef aspirations. The caramelized-onions and blue-cheese burger at his Father's Office restaurants is such a benchmark of the American staple that even Bobby Flay has had to try a version. And the service at Father's Office is effusive. Yoon subjects his troops to constant testing and training. The flip side of that is that Yoon can sometimes seem like a socialist dictator. Customers get no ketchup with their fries, and don't even ask for substitutions. His newest location near Culver City works like an assembly line, at least in the back. In front, it's a free-for-all (order at the bar, seat yourself) worthy of any Soviet-era bread line. And, frankly, Yoon's prices are populist. While a $12 burger combo might seem elitist, other restaurants charge a lot more for similar quality. Yoon has worked to elevate beer to the level of wine by pairing it with his signature dishes. At F.O. you'll find the most exotic Belgian trappist ales, the thickest, blackest stouts, the most refreshing lagers. What blows us away is the price — often $8 for a pint. Step up to the bar and order a glass of Belgian lambic ale in the flavor of the day. It's a fruity, champagnelike treat that makes you forget you're drinking beer, on tap for $8. Long live Yoon. 3229 Helms Ave., L.A. Also at 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica.