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Lou Amdur 

Restaurants, Dining

Confit, Where Art Thou?

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Restaurants, Dining

Drinking in the Great Outdoors

IN DAYS OF YORE, WHEN I SMELLED HEBREW Nationals on the grill, the beer center of my brain would awaken. Now, as I enter the ranks of middle-age bourgeoisdom, I rarely find myself reaching for a beer. I want wine, even in the most hellish of dog days. One simple...…
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Restaurants, Dining

The Original Pantry

I was taken to the Pantry for breakfast on my first visit to L.A., in the mid-’80s. I relished its Depression-era atmosphere, replete with dim lighting, smudged walls, and ancient waiters who appeared to have taken a cue from a John Sloan painting. Although the restaurant now sports a fresher...…
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