Lou Amdur

Latest Stories

  • 13 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

    Finding good confit is not easy in Los Angeles. Making it is a long process: Seasoned duck is salt-cured, slow-cooked in rendered fat, and put up in jars to mellow for a month or more. It‘s worth the wait. Confit is not only functional -- it&...

  • 13 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

    IN DAYS OF YORE, WHEN I SMELLED HEBREW Nationals on the grill, the beer center of my brain would awaken. Now, as I enter the ranks of middle-age bourgeoisdom, I rarely find myself reaching for a beer. I want wine, even in the most hellish of dog d...

  • 16 years ago | L.A. Restaurants

    I was taken to the Pantry for breakfast on my first visit to L.A., in the mid-’80s. I relished its Depression-era atmosphere, replete with dim lighting, smudged walls, and ancient waiters who appeared to have taken a cue from a John Sloan pa...

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