14 years ago | L.A. Restaurants
Finding good confit is not easy in Los Angeles. Making it is a long process: Seasoned duck is salt-cured, slow-cooked in rendered fat, and put up in jars to mellow for a month or more. Its worth the wait. Confit is not only functional -- it&...
15 years ago | L.A. Restaurants
IN DAYS OF YORE, WHEN I SMELLED HEBREW Nationals on the grill, the beer center of my brain would awaken. Now, as I enter the ranks of middle-age bourgeoisdom, I rarely find myself reaching for a beer. I want wine, even in the most hellish of dog d...