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2008 Stories by Jonathan Gold

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  • Koreatown 1.0: A Food Diary

    published October 16, 2008

    For years, I had contemplated what my first dinner in Seoul might be like, whether I’d splash out on a meal of barbecue... More >>

  • Philippe the Original Keeps Dipping

    published October 9, 2008

    Everybody comes through Philippe the Original: movie stars and guys who’ve managed to scrounge 11 cents for coffee, politicians and city... More >>

  • Lawry's the Prime Rib: Give 'em Red Meat

    published October 9, 2008

    Dear Mr. Gold:Twenty-five colleagues from Seoul are coming to town in a couple of weeks, and I need a place to feed them. We are not a... More >>

  • Octavio Becerra's Fine Palate

    published October 9, 2008

    If you wanted to know why Palate Food + Wine is the restaurant world’s favorite new place to eat in Los Angeles this... More >>

  • Best Ramen: Daikokuya

    published October 2, 2008

    Yes, we know about the old standards and the new, the austere Tokyo-based chain with branches in local Japanese supermarkets, and the... More >>

  • Best Gelato: Bulgarini Gelato

    published October 2, 2008

    Leo Bulgarini is the wrong guy to mouth off to the day after his beloved AS Roma squad drops a game to Genoa or Inter Milan,... More >>

  • Best Hot Dog: L.A. Street Dog at Fab's

    published October 2, 2008

    Los Angeles, as has been amply proven, is a melting pot of world hot dog culture, a city where it is possible to find persuasive versions of... More >>

  • Best Bagel: Brooklyn Bagel Bakery

    published October 2, 2008

    First-timers at the Brooklyn Bagel Bakery, a squat factory in a part of town now better known for burritos and Filipino... More >>

  • Best Autocratic Sushi: Hiko Sushi

    published October 2, 2008

    There are famously two schools of Los Angeles sushi at the moment, one of them, like Matsuhisa, looking to the global future of sushi; the... More >>

  • Best Stinky Food: Jitlada

    published October 2, 2008

    Sometimes, we’re in the mood for something delicate, turbot steamed in lemon leaves perhaps, or thinly sliced East Coast... More >>

  • Best Steak: Cut

    published October 2, 2008

    Mastro, Arnie Morton’s, Wolfgang’s, BLT Steak, Ruth’s Chris, the Palm — the city is awash in expense-account steak,... More >>

  • Best Shrimp Louie: Grill on the Alley

    published October 2, 2008

    Shrimp Louie, a goopy seafood salad dressed with a pinkly sweet mixture of mayonnaise and sugary bottled chile sauce, was the height of chic... More >>

  • Best Roast Chicken: Grill Masters

    published October 2, 2008

    Angelenos are spoiled for choice when it comes to roast chicken, from the smoky Peruvian-style chickens at Lola’s or... More >>

  • Best Pizza: Pizzeria Mozza

    published October 2, 2008

    It is almost impossible to have a civil discussion about pizza in this city of immigrants, because there may be no foodstuff so intimately... More >>

  • Best Fried Chicken: Kyochon

    published October 2, 2008

    I often f ind myself drawn to the peppery fried chicken at Bertha’s, a soul-food café not far from Watts, and the crackly skinned... More >>

  • Best Cupcakes: Oinkster

    published October 2, 2008

    We are living in an age not just of cupcakes but of cupcakes with publicists, exquisitely art-directed confections whose geometric decoration... More >>

  • Best Cobb Salad: The Polo Lounge

    published October 2, 2008

    The Cobb salad was invented at the old Hollywood Brown Derby when owner Bob Cobb, faced with either an overfull refrigerator or a starlet with... More >>

  • Best Cheesesteak: Philly West Bar & Grill

    published October 2, 2008

    Despite the downtown sushi restaurant that has reimagined the cheesesteak as an egg roll stuffing, and the close approximations of cheesesteaks... More >>

  • Best Burger: Comme Ça

    published October 2, 2008

    There are a lot of things to admire about Comme Ça. The selection of ripe cheese is among the best in the city, and the... More >>

  • Petaling Their Wares: Desert Rose Opens Up

    published September 25, 2008

    Angelenos have always been suckers for programmatic architecture, eager to eat chili in a chili bowl or munch on doughnuts under a 40-foot... More >>

  • Gills Gone Wild: Why Free-Swimming Salmon Is Best

    published September 25, 2008

    Dear Mr. Gold:Wild vs. farmed salmon — which do you prefer?—David Wallen Dear Mr.... More >>

  • Chai Thung: Isaan Also Rises

    published September 25, 2008

    It’s almost mind-bending, a good nam kaow tod, the rustic Thai salad of deep-fried rice grains and wetly pink... More >>

  • Get Stuffed on Arepas

    published September 18, 2008

    Dear Mr. Gold:I am looking to try traditional Venezuelan arepas but am finding it difficult in L.A. I know that Colombians have... More >>

  • A Proper Brasserie: Alain Giraud's Anisette

    published September 18, 2008

    There may be nothing quite as satisfying on a quiet Wednesday afternoon as a late lunch at Anisette brasserie, the chard and... More >>

  • Kitchen 24: Bar Crawler's Banquet

    published September 11, 2008

    It’s a hot Sunday noon, the Hollywood farmers market is shoulder-to-shoulder, and the swell of the heirloom-tomato-crazed crowd spills... More >>

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