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2007 Stories by Jonathan Gold

Archives: 2012 | 2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002 | 2001 | 2000 | 1999 | 1998

  • A Federal Case

    published November 1, 2007

    Most Los Angeles Mexican restaurants once seemed to be more or less the same, bastions of enchilada dinners and soggy chiles rellenos, Mexican... More >>

  • Valentino for the Rest of Us

    published October 25, 2007

    Valentino has long been L.A.’s ultimate special-occasion Italian restaurant, a bells-and-whistles place where you reserve a table weeks... More >>

  • Blind Tasting

    published October 25, 2007

    Dear Mr. Gold: I was watching CSI the other night, and a ridiculous murder took place in a restaurant where everyone eats in... More >>

  • Globavore or Locavore

    published October 25, 2007

    Twenty-five years ago, Michael’s, the Santa Monica restaurant that helped jump-start California cuisine, was famous for the exotic... More >>

  • Where to Eat Now

    published October 18, 2007

    Downtown L.A./Chinatown/Westlake E3rd Steakhouse Someday, when each of us is forced by redevelopment-agency storm troopers to eat supper... More >>

  • Salad Lovers, Get to the Point

    published October 18, 2007

    There can be beauty even in a quick-serve office-building canteen — Josiah Citrin and Rafael Lunetta taught us that at Lemon Moon. But... More >>

  • Tired of Thai

    published October 18, 2007

    Dear Mr. Gold:I’m going on 10 years of vegetarianism, but as a lifelong Angeleno, I’ve exhausted all my favorite vegetarian... More >>

  • Remembering Casa Bianca’s Sam Martorana

    published October 18, 2007

    The first time I stepped into Casa Bianca, I knew it was the pizza parlor I had always hoped to find in California, perfumed... More >>

  • Kumo: On a Roll

    published October 11, 2007

    The southwest corner of Kings Road and Melrose is where good restaurants go to die, the original address of Ma Maison damning future occupiers... More >>

  • Happy Meals

    published October 11, 2007

    Dear Mr. Gold: I recently got a new job in Culver City. I’m curious to know if you’ve found affordable places in Culver City... More >>

  • Larkin's Soul Revival

    published October 11, 2007

    Blink and you’ll miss Larkin’s, a converted house in a newly refurbished corner of Eagle Rock, just a few yards... More >>

  • Counter Intelligence

    published October 11, 2007

    Downtown L.A./Chinatown/Westlake Ebisu How many izakaya are there in Los Angeles? How many grains of sand lie upon Zuma Beach? Ebisu,... More >>

  • Stop the Music!

    published October 4, 2007

    Dear Mr. Gold:I need your help. In my experience, a good number of restaurants play music that is too loud to allow one to converse... More >>

  • Best Fizz

    published October 4, 2007

    Most wine merchants realize that they are basically in the service industry, there to flatter your exquisite taste, talk the talk, maybe at the... More >>

  • So Long, and Thanks for All the Fish

    published October 4, 2007

    It is still dark when I wake up, and I pad down the stairs to put together one last breakfast of biscuits, eggs and juice before the rest of... More >>

  • Best Soup Dumpling

    published October 4, 2007

    Xiao long bao, Shanghai-style soup dumplings, are primary objects of desire in the San Gabriel Valley, hermetically sealed demi-orbs... More >>

  • Best Whey Out

    published October 4, 2007

    A platter of the right kinds of cheese, accompanied by the appropriate condiments, could probably start a party all on its own, the splendid... More >>

  • Best Emergency Protein

    published October 4, 2007

    L.A.’s Chinese and Vietnamese communities are riddled with artisan jerky shops, places where you can get not just a half dozen kinds of... More >>

  • Fresh Fish and Frog at Hong Yei

    published September 27, 2007

    There are a lot of new Sichuan restaurants in Los Angeles — real ones, staffed by chefs from Chung­king or Chengdu, most of them with... More >>

  • Brooklyn Bagel's Hole Foods

    published September 27, 2007

    Dear Mr. Gold:As a native New Yorker, I have yet to find a decent bagel west of the Hudson River. Most of the so-called bagels here... More >>

  • Fraîche Airs

    published September 27, 2007

    In the new Culver City, where the creative arts are to the city’s job base what automobiles are to Detroit, Mediterranean-influenced... More >>

  • Where To Eat Now

    published September 20, 2007

    Downtown L.A./Chinatown/Westlake ADCB?Ciudad Glistening oysters at happy hour. Fatally strong mojitos. Peruvian-style ceviches and... More >>

  • Magical Mystery Tour

    published September 20, 2007

    To the small, food-obsessed population of Angelenos who know the difference between a sliver Jabugo ham and a chunk of mere jamon... More >>

  • The Missing Rice Table

    published September 20, 2007

    Dear Mr. Gold:Whenever we are in Amsterdam, we always try to take in an Indonesian rijsttafel or “rice table.” Do... More >>

  • Red Scare at Boiling Crab

    published September 20, 2007

    In the 18 hours and 43 minutes since my last meal at Boiling Crab, I have taken three showers, washed my hands thirty-seven... More >>

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