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2000 Stories by Jonathan Gold

Archives: 2012 | 2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002 | 2001 | 2000 | 1999 | 1998

  • Wiener Take All

    published December 7, 2000

    Canary Canary is an Iranian sandwich shop on Westwood‘s Iranian strip, a house of kebabs in the most kebab-intensive neighborhood... More >>

  • Pig Out

    published November 16, 2000

    Antojitos Denise‘s In Los Angeles, good carnitas are common, great carnitas rare. Denise’s is a small, sweet taco stand... More >>

  • Super Bowls

    published August 31, 2000

    Heavy Noodling Heavy Noodling specializes in the sort of strands 100 generations of Chinese chefs have regarded with horror: thick,... More >>

  • Ah, Chiu Chow!

    published August 17, 2000

    Photo by Anne Fishbein 888 Did I say Chiu Chow? My first meal at 888 — which included a garlicky... More >>

  • Restaurants That Are Older Than Your Mom

    published August 3, 2000

    Ciro’s Some definitions: 1) A flauta is a corn tortilla wrapped around a meat filling and fried crisp. Stylistically, flautas can... More >>

  • From Formosa With Love

    published July 27, 2000

    Chicken Garden Chicken Garden is a nearly elegant, bare-bones sort of place with soft lights and framed calligraphy.... More >>

  • The Great Outdoors

    published July 20, 2000

    Cha Cha Chicken Although Cha Cha Chicken seems to operate mostly as a takeout stand, the patio off to the side is a pleasant place on a... More >>

  • More Than Enough

    published July 13, 2000

    Photo by Anne Fishbein Chinese banquets are extremely fine things, exquisitely choreographed successions of tastes and textures that are... More >>

  • Shafted!

    published July 6, 2000

    Agung Agung has all the stuff that would be standard if Indonesian food were as common as Thai: good, clumpy fried rice with scallions... More >>

  • Frankie Goes to Hollywood

    published June 29, 2000

    All India Cafe The conceit here is dishes from each of the regions of India -- tandoori meats from the north and masala dosa from the... More >>

  • Supersize It!

    published June 22, 2000

    China Islamic Restaurant Almost as soon as you walk into the restaurant, you’ll be asked if you want sesame bread (you do), a... More >>

  • L.A. When It Sizzles

    published June 15, 2000

    Alameda Swap Meet The big food stall under the awning closest to the main building here is a full-on Mexican restaurant without the... More >>

  • Holy Moles

    published June 8, 2000

    Alegria The best food here revolves around the extraordinary mole sauce: sharp, thick, sweetly complex, with top notes of smoke, clove... More >>

  • Heart and Seoul

    published June 1, 2000

    Let Kansas City have its fried chicken, San Francisco its cioppino. Los Angeles is a world center of kimchi, the odiferous fermented vegetables... More >>

  • Mary Had a Little Lamb

    published June 1, 2000

    Agung has all the stuff that would be standard if Indonesian food were as common as Thai: clumpy fried rice with scallions and ham; delicious... More >>

  • Balls to the Wall

    published May 25, 2000

    Cafe Brasil Mostly, you‘ll find grilled animals at Cafe Brasil: pork chops, lamb chops, steak, shrimp and fish, all profoundly... More >>

  • Brain Food

    published May 18, 2000

    Little Malaysia Little Malaysia seems to concentrate on the Nonya cooking of Pinang, an island off Malaysia’s west coast: hot and... More >>

  • Big Ass Mound o’ Starch

    published May 11, 2000

    Photo by Anne Fishbein Bambi Bakery This may be the loudest place in Hollywood on Saturday mornings, with taped marimba music... More >>

  • Gills & All

    published May 4, 2000

    Photo by Anne Fishbein Boca del Rio This place may lack the elaborate chilpacholes, the exotic jungly stews, the strange... More >>

  • Eatin’ ’em for Breakfast

    published April 13, 2000

    Photo by Anne Fishbein BRUDDAH’S The Spam-fueled Hawaiian aesthetic of Pacific Rim... More >>

  • The Matter at Hand

    published April 6, 2000

    AlisaChao Nue Mention the words northern cooking at Alisa, and suddenly another restaurant -- Chao Nue -- unfolds, complete with its own... More >>

  • Welcome to La La Land

    published March 30, 2000

    Photo by Anne Fishbein La Abeja Other restaurants may be more ambitious, but La Abeja, from the green-sauced enchilada plates to... More >>

  • Just for the El of It

    published March 23, 2000

    Photo by Anne Fishbein El Amanecer Salvadoreño Consider the pupusa (generally served at Salvadoran specialty restaurants,... More >>

  • My Favorite Things, Part 3

    published March 16, 2000

    Corn chowder The Ivy is a New Yorker's perfect dream of Los Angeles, splashed with sunlight, decorated with amusing... More >>

  • My Favorite Things, Part 2

    published March 9, 2000

    The Best of Counter Intelligence Imports and adaptations Hollenbeck burrito Like the giant bowls of... More >>

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