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1999 Stories by Jonathan Gold

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  • Remembrance of Meals Past

    published December 30, 1999

      Pork arm. J.Z.Y., the first American satellite of a venerable Beijing teahouse, can seem a little like a Chinese version of the... More >>

  • Subs 'n' Such

    published December 30, 1999

    Ba Le Banh mi are more or less Vietnamese hoagies, meat and vegetables daubed with mayonnaise, crammed into a lightly toasted French... More >>

  • The Best of Counter Intelligence

    published December 23, 1999

    All India Café This place is at its best when you bring the fewest preconceptions to the table, when the food least resembles its... More >>

  • Have It Their Way

    published December 16, 1999

    Photo by Anne FishbeinFRENCH CHEFS HERE, MOST OF THEM ANYWAY, ARE resigned to nourishing their best customers on custom-ordered egg-white omelets,... More >>

  • Looks Like Chicken, Tastes Like Chicken . . .

    published December 16, 1999

    Charming Garden Charming Garden is a clean, bright place, spare of ornament, with fresh tablecloths and formal service. It is also the... More >>

  • Yo Quiero Tacos

    published December 9, 1999

    Art by Dave Shulman La Luz del Día The last place you'd expect to find a real Mexican joint is among the maraca... More >>

  • Return of the Mole People

    published December 2, 1999

    Seven years ago, when the first Tlapazola Grill opened on the site of a former Santa Monica New Age coffee shop in Santa Monica, Oaxacan food... More >>

  • Man, Eating Animals

    published December 2, 1999

    The Arsenal Good steak houses are basically of two kinds: the ones that pass along the $15-plus per pound they pay for prime meat... More >>

  • Bun There, Done That

    published November 18, 1999

    photo by Kathleen ClarkEVEN IN LOS ANGELES . . . WHERE IT IS possible to eat not only wood-fired goat-cheese pizza with duck sausage and... More >>

  • I, the Jury

    published November 11, 1999

    Kim Chuy The basic deal at a Chiu Chow -- Thai-Chinese, that is -- noodle shop is, of course, Chiu Chow noodles: slippery rice noodles... More >>

  • Spamming the Globe

    published November 4, 1999

    More >>

  • Stool Sample

    published November 4, 1999

    The Apple Pan Here is the homey plaid wallpaper; the worn wooden walls; the clean, warm funk of frying meat. Here is Coca-Cola poured... More >>

  • Mad Cow

    published October 28, 1999

    The Arsenal Good steak houses are basically of two kinds: the ones that pass along the $15-plus per pound they pay for prime meat... More >>

  • Marine Land

    published October 21, 1999

    Photo by Anne FishbeinENSENADA HAS ALWAYS BEEN A WORLD CAPITAL of Lost Weekends: popular with sport fisherman who measure out their... More >>

  • Good, Better, Wurst

    published October 21, 1999

    Ensenada has always been a world capital of Lost Weekends: popular with sport fisherman who measure out their afternoons in spent cases of... More >>

  • Slither

    published October 14, 1999

    Chu‘s Mandarin Cuisine There is a photo of Arnold Schwarzenegger in the window of Chu’s Mandarin Cuisine. Arnold has one arm... More >>

  • In Search of Lost Tortas

    published September 30, 1999

    More >>

  • Reds

    published September 30, 1999

    Ponce de Leon had his Fountain of Youth, Ahab his whale, Columbus his islands of spice. Dr. Leakey spent half of his life looking for a bone or... More >>

  • Slippery When Wet

    published September 23, 1999

    Alameda Swap Meet The big food stall under the awning closest to the main building here is a full-on Mexican restaurant without the... More >>

  • Roll 'Em

    published September 16, 1999

    Burrito King If your idea of an "authentic" burrito involves liquidy beans or brains or tongue or pig's stomach, allow... More >>

  • I Scream, You Scream, We All Scream

    published September 9, 1999

    Agung Agung, near downtown, has become the one place to go when you want avocado in your coffee. Iced coffee and the creamy fruit go... More >>

  • Pig Deal

    published September 2, 1999

    Photo by Anne Fishbein I'VE PROBABLY BEEN GOING TO LA ABEJA FOR about a dozen years now, long enough to see the owner's kids grow up... More >>

  • It Must Be Jelly . . .

    published September 2, 1999

    Borobudur Garden Borobudur Garden might be an Indonesian greasy spoon, but it's a great greasy spoon, focused and satisfying, with crisp... More >>

  • The Egg and I

    published August 26, 1999

    Du-par's The Studio City Du-par's is a clubhouse for gaffers in the early morning and high school kids late at night, screenwriters... More >>

  • Pigskin Follies

    published August 19, 1999

    Antojitos Denise's In Los Angeles, good carnitas are common, great carnitas rare. Denise's is a small, sweet taco stand whose customer... More >>

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