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1998 Stories by Jonathan Gold

Archives: 2012 | 2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002 | 2001 | 2000 | 1999 | 1998

  • Gruel World

    published August 6, 1998

    Dim sum can be grand. Northern breakfast breads are delicious. But congee - porridge - may be as close as there is to a universal Chinese... More >>

  • Trapper's Delight

    published July 30, 1998

    If you grew up in West Los Angeles, you probably have primal yearnings for Lawry's roast beef that you don't fully understand. If like me you... More >>

  • Fish Out of Water

    published July 23, 1998

    The San Pedro Fish Market and Restaurant may be the most raucous place in Los Angeles on a Saturday afternoon - a crumbling wharf in the Ports O'... More >>

  • Hong Kong Chow

    published July 16, 1998

    Empress Pavilion-- A recent meal at Empress Pavilion included shiitake mushrooms braised with snow-pea leaves - a musky... More >>

  • Ping-Pong Balls and Thai Tacos

    published July 9, 1998

    Everybody likes mint-leaf chicken. In some parts of town, pad Thai noodles are more popular than hot dogs. But to people not actually raised in... More >>

  • Persian Cats

    published July 2, 1998

    Canary Canary is an Iranian sandwich shop on Westwood's Iranian strip, a house of kebabs in the most kebab-intensive... More >>

  • Soft-Shoe Sushi

    published July 2, 1998

    Sushi on Tap is a stylish sushi bar in a Studio City mini-mall, a tap-dance-themed place with bright posters on the walls, tap documentaries... More >>

  • The Best of Counter Intelligence

    published June 25, 1998

    While the contributions of South America to world culture may include the magical realist novel, Che's groovy beret and Lambada: The... More >>

  • A Perfect Day for Banana Pizza

    published June 25, 1998

    The Brazilian restaurant Zabumba is as soccer-mad as any three British pubs, with a welter of video screens tuned to the games, World Cup... More >>

  • Only the Lonely

    published June 18, 1998

    The concept of the single-item restaurant is well known in Los Angeles: Lawry's for prime rib, Tommy's for hamburgers, Philippe's for French... More >>

  • Sticking It Where The Sun Shines

    published June 18, 1998

    New York has pushcart dogs and the garlic knobelwurst at Katz's deli. Chicago has Vienna franks. Rochester has its white-hots, Cincinnati its... More >>

  • Out of Africa

    published June 4, 1998

    The first West African cooks to land in the Caribbean more than 400 years ago did not precisely apply for their jobs. But since then African... More >>

  • A Round of Sushi

    published May 14, 1998

    Behold Sushi Bar Golf, at the historic intersection of Third and Vermont, a Japanese restaurant at the heart of a neighborhood that can't decide... More >>

  • Old-School Thais

    published May 7, 1998

    Vim must have been one of the first dozen Thai restaurants in Los Angeles, a bright, fragrant storefront on a strip of South Vermont that anchored... More >>

  • White Glove Hamburgers

    published April 30, 1998

    Julienne may be the last restaurant of its type in Los Angeles County, a patio café in the heart of San Marino’s small downtown that... More >>

  • Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam. . .

    published April 16, 1998

    There is sushi. And then there is Spam musubi. Spam musubi is a brick of vinegared sushi rice, the size of a chalkboard eraser but with 20... More >>

  • Tacos Belles

    published April 16, 1998

    When the Southwestern thing was hot a few years ago, we tasted foie-gras tacos with honey-lime sauce and radicchio tacos stuffed with crab;... More >>

  • Griddle Me This

    published April 2, 1998

    Japan, of course, is home to the most refined food culture in the world, to fish fried so delicately that it appears less greasy than it did... More >>

  • Grill Crazy

    published March 26, 1998

    Quest for fire? Grate expectations? Sear bliss? Old King Coal? Stripes? When protein meets the bonfire, cuisine starts to happen - cuisine,... More >>

  • Loaves and Fishes

    published March 26, 1998

    For most of the last decade, Gagnier's of New Orleans was a gleaming white-tablecloth creole restaurant in the Baldwin Hills/Crenshaw Plaza... More >>

  • Amphibious Assault

    published March 19, 1998

    If you have taken your American Express card out for a walk lately, you have probably noticed that Los Angeles has become a city of supper... More >>

  • The Best of Counter Intelligence

    published March 12, 1998

    Bahooka This Polynesian restaurant is the kind of place you'd expect to find near a scruffy tropical seaport, all... More >>

  • She Conchs to Stupor

    published March 12, 1998

    Coconut-enriched seafood chowders, from new-wave Florida soups to the fiery mocquecas of northern Brazil, are a staple of the warm-water Americas.... More >>

  • Big Meat

    published March 5, 1998

    Al-WatanLike any serious Pakistani restaurant, Al-Watan ostensibly specializes in the complicated offal dishes that make... More >>

  • Vietnamese rice in San Gabriel

    published March 5, 1998

    A French chef is not considered accomplished until he has mastered the classical repertoire from bouillon to ballotines; Italian chefs pride... More >>

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