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1998 Stories by Jonathan Gold

Archives: 2012 | 2011 | 2010 | 2009 | 2008 | 2007 | 2006 | 2005 | 2004 | 2003 | 2002 | 2001 | 2000 | 1999 | 1998

  • Authentic Café?

    published December 31, 1998

    Photo by Anne FishbeinAuthenticity comes in many flavors in Los Angeles, from the goat stew at places that seem plucked straight out of the... More >>

  • Do the Continental

    published December 31, 1998

    Bay Cities Bay Cities makes a decent turkey sandwich, a loud, greasy meatball sandwich, and a very respectable hero with Parma... More >>

  • Raw Power

    published December 24, 1998

    Photo by Anne FishbeinThere are, of course, many sushi experiences available in the greater Los Angeles area: sushi served by reggae singers and... More >>

  • Dear Diary

    published December 17, 1998

    Photo by Anne Fishbein Here’s what I did last week. SUNDAY: Everybody but me, it appears, adores the crisp-skinned... More >>

  • American Pie

    published December 10, 1998

    Apple Pan My family have been Apple Pan regulars at least since Lew Alcindor played freshman ball. The top and bottom buns of an Apple... More >>

  • Seeing Red

    published December 3, 1998

    Ashoka the Great Ashoka is where to come for tandoori dishes: skinless chicken legs and fish kebabs and minced-lamb... More >>

  • Bright Lights, Pig City

    published November 19, 1998

    The vast Cantonese banquet halls process thousands of customers a day. Gleaming Hong Kong-style cafés are as numerous as the red beans in a Chinese m... More >>

  • Heavy Rotation

    published November 12, 1998

    Green Field Churrascaria What to do at the Brazilian steak house Green Field is grab a plate and wander through the... More >>

  • Frank Discussion

    published November 12, 1998

    `If you grew up eating hot dogs in the swinging San Fernando Valley '70s, your family probably had allegiances to the Hot Dog Show or Flooky's... More >>

  • All the Little Live Things

    published November 5, 1998

    Bahooka This Polynesian restaurant is the kind of place you'd expect to find near a scruffy tropical seaport, all... More >>

  • North of Old Town

    published November 5, 1998

    Old Town Pasadena may be the most gentrified district in America, a sort of mega-mall sprinkled like fairy dust through hundred-year-old office... More >>

  • The Pie's the Limit

    published October 29, 1998

    Casa Bianca Of all the neighborhood pizza parlors out there, each of them touted as the best in the Southland, one of... More >>

  • Hot Stuff

    published October 29, 1998

    The hottest Thai curry in Los Angeles? It's hard to say. The fieriest Mexican dish? I couldn't tell you, although a dish of grilled shrimp with... More >>

  • Out and In

    published October 22, 1998

    Casa Bianca Of all the neighborhood pizza parlors out there, each of them touted as the best in the Southland, one of... More >>

  • Man Bites Prawn

    published October 15, 1998

    The first cold night of fall, I went to the Living Fish Center, a small, superbly named Koreatown restaurant in whose window a brilliant neon... More >>

  • Mixmasters

    published October 8, 1998

    Bahooka In the '70s and '80s, countless Kelbo's and Don the Beachcombers closed, the Torches was razed for condos, and the Luau on Rodeo... More >>

  • The Year I Ate Pico Boulevard

    published October 1, 1998

    For a while in my early 20s, I had only one clearly articulated ambition: to eat at least once at every restaurant on Pico Boulevard, starting... More >>

  • Birria Forever! And Ever...and Ever...

    published September 24, 1998

    Baldomero There may be more than birria and weekend menudo here, but it would be hard to tell by looking at the plates... More >>

  • Liquid Diet

    published September 17, 1998

    Cole's P.E. Buffet When you trip down out of the bright sunlight into the dim warren of Cole's, you stumble into... More >>

  • Profiles in Curry

    published September 10, 1998

    All India CafeThe conceit here is dishes from each of the regions of India - tandoori meats from the north and masala dosa... More >>

  • Yemenite Delight

    published September 3, 1998

    As an agricultural center, Yemen produced the world's first coffee. As a center of music, it produced Ofra Haza, once known as the Yemenite... More >>

  • Smoke Gets in Your Eyes

    published August 27, 1998

    Al-Watan If you have a taste for meaty northern Indian cooking, Pakistani cooking is probably everything you like and... More >>

  • Lotus Eaters

    published August 20, 1998

    Indian cooking is, of course, some of the most varied and delightful on earth, the repository of a hundred spices, a thousand marvels and 10,000... More >>

  • Finally, Enough Garlic

    published August 20, 1998

    Brooklyn Bagel Bakery The bagels are fresh here in the a.m., sometimes still hot from the oven, fragrantly sweet, soft... More >>

  • Dog Day Afternoon

    published August 13, 1998

    Dodger Stadium Children growing up in Los Angeles found the spicy funk of grilling dogs as much a part of the Dodger... More >>

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