Bucato Review: Evan Funke's Helms Bakery Restaurant Triumphs

There's also the question of reservations, which are only same-day for the time being. Funke says this policy is probably temporary and was put in place to avoid the usual crush and resulting disarray that goes along with restaurant openings. But it also makes planning a dinner here frustrating, though reservations have been fairly easy to come by, even later in the day.

Many people, too, have complained about portion sizes. My gut reaction is to dismiss this as the American fallacy of more-is-better. We are simply not used to small, gorgeous portions of pasta; we'd prefer a giant bowl of the stuff. Yet there are places where the complainers have a point, where dishes are too small to share (as we're instructed to do by the waitstaff), where a $9 dessert is barely three spoonfuls. I appreciate the restraint — tiny desserts can be a relief after a rich, filling meal — but cost is a factor, too.

Then there are the bathrooms. Yes, the bathrooms, which aren't in the restaurant but somewhere behind it, down a concrete breezeway. You will be given a code to memorize and punch into a keypad to gain access (if someone on staff notices you're looking — this system has no DIY option), presumably because otherwise the stalls might become a refuge for the area's homeless population.

PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Bucato's rosemary focaccia

Location Info

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Bucato

3280 Helms Ave.
Culver City, CA 90232

Category: Restaurant > Contemporary

Region: Culver City

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More About

• Evan Funke
• Anne Fishbein
• Bologna
• Eating Out
• Ethnic and Regional Cuisines

But none of these things bother me as much as the inside space, which feels less like a welcoming restaurant and more like a brightly lit, high-design hallway between galleries at some big-city museum. Designed by Undisclosable Inc., the angular structure above the open kitchen and the high ceilings work well to deflect noise, but the layout is awkward, never allowing the interior to feel bustling or vibrant.

The front patio, on the other hand, is simple yet lovely: comfortable seats, attractive flame space heaters, a glassed-in view of Helms. Sitting here, eating pasta and these insanely well-conceived vegetable dishes, Bucato seems like a dream.

Funke and his crew are taking so many things we think we know and showing us a better version, the best version. Controversies, difficulties and weird room be damned: This is a very good dream.

Reach the writer at brodell@laweekly.com.

See more of Anne Fishbein's photos of Bucato.

BUCATO | Three stars | 3280 Helms Ave., Culver City | (310) 876-0286 | bucato.la | Sun. & Tues.-Thurs., 5-10:30 p.m.; Fri. & Sat., 5-11:30 p.m. Brunch, Sat. & Sun., 11 a.m.-3 p.m. | Plates (range from snack to entree size), $4-$22 | Beer and wine | Street and lot parking