Despite being open less than two months, the place already operates like a precisely calibrated engine, which is what you might expect of an outfit like Water Grill. (It may help that much of the staff from Ocean Avenue Seafood has stayed on in the new concept, including chef Tom Rummel, who had previously been kitchen manager. Downtown chef Damon Gordon oversees both menus, along with King's Seafood "culinary director" Brian Okada.) With 8,700 square feet and about a bazillion diners coming through daily, it's impressive to watch the graceful but furiously paced dance of the service staff.
The formal but friendly tone is just right. Water glasses are perpetually, magically full; empty plates are whisked away before you know it; and you'll never be without a cocktail or glass of wine, if that's your desire.
All of this makes the new Water Grill a little strange to assess. For the service, raw bar, quality of product, wine list and view (both interior and exterior), there is no better place in this part of Santa Monica to eat. And thank God we finally have somewhere decent to feed all those tourists coming through the doors. But the cooking, particularly the more creative dishes, could use some help in the execution. The tweaks needed are small — colder crudo, seasoned salads, a lighter hand with the butter — but would have a huge effect on the overall experience.
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Water Grill
1401 Ocean Ave.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Category: Restaurant > Seafood
Region: Santa Monica
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In the meantime, I'll happily settle into one of those big leather booths, order a platter of cold shellfish and a bottle of Jurancon Sec, and bask in the ocean breeze coming in though those huge, Pacific-facing windows. To have two great L.A. deficiencies — restaurants on the water; restaurants inspired by the water — remedied by Water Grill feels like destiny.
See more of Anne Fishbein's photos of Water Grill
Reach the writer at brodell@laweekly.com
WATER GRILL | Three stars | 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica | (310) 394-5569 | watergrill.com | Sun.-Thurs., 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.; Fri. & Sat., 11:30 a.m.-mid. | Entrees, $26-$44 (more for seafood by the pound) | Full bar | Valet parking
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