Girasol Review: CJ Jacobson's New Studio City Restaurant Doesn't Always Succeed

The chef's stint at Noma is a clear influence but the execution sometimes trips him up.

The vegetarian entree, pan-roasted cauliflower, also had the problem of a lovely setup and dissatisfying main component. Almond cauliflower puree and lentils with bright satsuma citrus and grilled oyster mushrooms made a creamy, hearty base for the large, undercooked and slightly woody hunks of cauliflower.

And braised leg of lamb with carrot puree would have been a favorite dish if not for the meat itself. The plate's root vegetable underpinnings, brightened by plum and fennel flowers, were a fantastic accompaniment to the musk of the lamb. But again, it was cooking, not flavor or quality, that was the problem. Perhaps the lamb hadn't sat long enough in its braising liquid to reabsorb its moisture, rendering it dry enough to need that carrot puree for moisture rather than happy companionship.

Jacobson has complained publicly that good cooks are hard to find, particularly in the Valley, and it's possible understaffing is to blame for some of these transgressions. At the same time, he has been a constant presence on the nights I've dined at Girasol, and that salmon is not a piece of fish that should have left a kitchen in which the chef was present.

Girasol's octopus salad
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Girasol's octopus salad

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Girasol

11334 Moorpark St.
North Hollywood, CA 91602

Category: Restaurant > New American

Region: San Fernando Valley

2 user reviews
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On the other hand, a whole fried red snapper came to the table crispy and succulent, its accompaniment of fermented Fresno chili, kumquat and sorrel nodding to the dish's Asian roots but also placing it firmly in its modern Californian context and location. There are places where Jacobson walks that line quite elegantly.

The chef also has been quoted as saying that the Valley needed a restaurant like this, somewhere swank and a little serious, with high design and a locavore ethos. He's probably right. Whether Girasol will be the restaurant to give Jacobson the post-TV identity he obviously deserves is another matter.

See more of Anne Fishbein's photos of Girasol

Reach the writer at brodell@laweekly.com.

GIRASOL | Two stars | 11334 Moorpark St., Studio City | (818) 924-2323 | girasolrestaurant.com | Sun.-Wed., 6-10 p.m.; Thurs.-Sat., 6-11 p.m. | Entrees: $16-$38 | Beer and wine served | Valet and limited street parking

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11 comments
LAfoodie
LAfoodie

methinks the shills doth protest too much

johnsontran
johnsontran

I've dined at Girasol twice, and I actually feel this review was spot on.  They did have good service and had no problem re-doing an octopus dish that we thought was a bit tough.  I don't know why all the commenters are so angry... I read this as quite a favorable review with honest observations and hopes for its future.

I didn't really love the place, but I hope that doesn't mean angry citizens in the Valley will lambaste me for my poor taste.  Food and value are subjective... Why is it so hard to believe that not everyone's taste is perfectly aligned with yours?

madd74
madd74

I find many critics today lack passion, experience & overall understanding of their job.  While many "critics" use their position to expand their personal agenda to become well-known others actually have the depth of knowledge and experience to make thoughtful references to other restaurants.

Firstly I have not seen such superfluous information in an "essay" since I was proof reading a 10 year old's 1,000 word report on Africa where they spent more than half the words explaining that one needs to pack clothes.  The idea that the reviewer spent the first part of the review talking about Top Chef makes me wonder if LA Weekly pays her by the word.

With that out of the way let's take a look at the first of many ridiculous assertions made by the "reviewer": 

"Gorgeous "beets and berries" appetizer consists of florets of leaves and herbs placed artfully in a base of whipped goat cheese along with beets and various berries. It looks like a masterpiece, yet it's a beet-and–goat cheese salad"  

Before I move on I must make my feelings very clear, because subtly is lost on you, YOU ARE A DONKEY!! 

That said, to call a dish "gorgeous" & a "masterpiece" and then say "well it's just beet and goat cheese salad" is just laughable.  Have you eaten at Noma, Jules Verne, or Eleven Madison Park? Well I have and the difference between the mundane (ala your mommy making beets and goat cheese) and the elevated culinary artistry is the use of "florets and herbs" the subtle flavors or unexpected marriages of ingredients is what elevates the obvious into artistry.  For instance, Chef Humm takes tomatoes, herbs and edible flowers to create a tomato tea or for people like you; he just made Tomato Soup.

Why is the location of the restaurant even a discussion?  Did you ask for the salmon & lamb back to the kitchen to be re-done to your specifications?  Most experienced dinners know that it is perfectly acceptable to return any dish so that the kitchen has an opportunity to make it right. 

Your review was more about Top Chef than discussing the fact that very few chefs in LA are cooking at this level.  It is a shame that restaurant criticism has deteriorated to the point where a chef’s appearance on a TV show outweighs your honest restaurant experience.   

JCast14
JCast14

I would have to agree with the the other comment. We finally get an AUTHENTIC and tasteful restaurant in the valley and we get a wanna-be "foodie" columnist  making crude and quite honestly tacky comments. Everyone has the right to their own opinion but I truly feel that one needs to experience Girasol restaurant themselves in order to see what all the buzz is about. It stems from the minute you walk in the restaurant when you are greeted by kind hostesses to wonderful servers who are educated on the menu and deliver an impeccable dining experience and of course the Chef who truly puts time and love into every dish.

I dine here A LOT and I see time from time the Chef going to the guests tables to simply say "hello" and see how their dining experience was. He is down to earth and from what I and others have experienced, Chef truly loves what he does. Not only does the food taste fresh and "mouth watering" every single time but the presentation is impressive. This restaurant is unique in every way.

I say we need a more qualified food columnist who really knows what great food is and who is more focused on her job which is to review the "food and restaurant" rather than focusing so much on the Chefs past. It seems like she has some type of vendetta against the Chef from being on the show "Top Chef". I don't know maybe she is just a "hater" of Top Chef but this says a lot about her character and one must question "is this even a professional food critique?". My answer to that would be an obvious NO. Just another stuck up LA columnist trying to create buzz for herself. 

mburgandi
mburgandi

WOW! As a local Studio City diner, I am shocked how distasteful this review is! WE LOVE THIS PLACE! We used to live and dine in Hollywood and there is nothing like this there. This article is just a pretentious OPINION of some wanna-be "foodie" columnist! This place is breathtaking, mouthwatering and unlike the personality of this stuffy, "journalist" is relaxed and full of flavor!

PLEASE DO NOT base your opinion on this ridiculous article and go try it for yourself!

~Ms. Food

grb11
grb11

Thanks for the review of the perils of the TV show, not exactly a great representation of focus on your part.  As a native Angeleno  I want you to know that this review was so inept that I signed up for an account just to respond to your babble. Girasol has delivered and continues to deliver consistently imaginative and beautifully prepared food.  The chefs attention to the details, texture and the compilation of a dish is represented in everything that is put in front of you. His food is fresh, imaginative and leaves you wondering what other treats he has up his sleeve. 

I see you have referred to blunders in the kitchen, i certainly hope that while preparing this article you didn't find it necessary to use spell-check as it is always easy to get things right EVERY time.

I encourage you to dine and rethink your position as I think it is completely flawed.,again at what is one of the best restaurants in Los Angeles, and not just the 818

cat123
cat123

I am so happy to finally see an honest review of Girasol.  It has been so incredibly overhyped by other media. Girasol is an okay restaurant with hit and miss dishes.  The fried snapper is the highlight. Other food is semi-tasty at best.  And the desserts?  Not worth the money for how small and unimpressive they are. Perhaps people rave because choices are so slim in the 818. If Girasol were a "city" restaurant, it would never get much attention. As an 818er myself, I would rather drive a few more miles to get a better dining experience for my money.

madd74
madd74

@johnsontran Not everyone loves this type of food & that is fine.  The issue I have with the "reviewer" is talking about Top Chef in a restaurant review. 

I am sure our tastes are not aligned and that is totally cool.

JCast14
JCast14

@cat123  would have to disagree and say that choices are NOT slim in the Valley. Ventura Blvd is filled with many trendy and cute restaurants. What makes Girasol different from the rest is that it's authentic and creative. Not everyone is going to like the food and that is okay, but I felt that this columnist had much more to say about the Chef and his past on "Top Chef" than on his food. She was not focused and was just all over the place.  It seemed like she just needed to fill in the gaps. If she had used a more professional approach I think people would respect her opinion, but she didn't. 

Yes, this is not the "City" and indeed the Valley but I still believe if this were located in Santa Monica or somewhere busy it would still do extremely well. It just has the "it" factor. And prices at Girasol are pretty equivalent to other nice upscale dining places in the Valley. You are paying for quality food not a Jerry's Famous Deli or your local diner. It's not about the quantity but simply the quality. 

In addition, I don't think it has been overhyped at all. Like any new restaurant in town you want the word to get out and I think they have done a pretty outstanding job in doing so. People in the Valley can be a tough crowd but as long as Girasol stand's its ground they will end up on top. 

madd74
madd74

@cat123 How many times have you dined at Girasol? Which dishes were hit or miss? 

Which desserts have you had?  They are not worth the money because of the portion size?  I just want to make you aware that not every "dining establishment" has the Super Size option. (I know not fair but true)

Which plates were "semi-tasty"? What the hell is semi-tasty?  

Where are you going "a few more miles" away to get a better dining experience? Los Angeles has never delivered a "dining experience" in the way say Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée delivers. 

I look forward to your engaging response.

mburgandi
mburgandi

@madd74 @johnsontran agreed! No one has the same taste, BUT, cutting down a passionate Chef who, if you have followed his work or know him at all, is VERY serious, passionate and absolutely in love with being a chef, is just tacky in my opinion. Especially since as in any art form, you go out on a limb and put yourself out there, regardless of critics opinions. Good for you Chef CJ, keep up the amazing work! :-)  

 
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