
An appearance on Top Chef can do many things for "cheftestants" and their careers. If they stick it out beyond the first one or two episodes, they are likely to become famous, or at the very least be catapulted into that strange realm of reality TV pseudo-celebrity. Some, particularly those featured in the show's earlier seasons, have attracted investors and launched careers based on their newfound name recognition. But a percentage of alumni definitely suffers from the Top Chef Curse — chefs who simply can't seem to find their footing post-television.
A number of factors contributes to the Curse, and they may be different for each individual. Most chefs come to Top Chef as relatively undiscovered talent, perhaps after cheffing at a midrange restaurant or slaving away over someone else's dreams, someone else's stove. After the show they're famous, and that ought to count for something, right? People tell them not to sell themselves short, not to go back to the midlevel restaurant they left for TV, to aim higher now that they have the leverage of exposure. Yet they're still contracted to do appearances for Bravo, so throwing themselves into anything wholeheartedly can be a challenge.
See more of Anne Fishbein's photos of Girasol
11334 Moorpark St.
North Hollywood, CA 91602
Category: Restaurant > New American
Region: San Fernando Valley
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This Week's Restaurant Review: Girasol in Studio City
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Girasol's Two Stars: Readers Respond to Besha Rodell's ReviewOn top of these conundrums, all of their personality quirks and faults have been aired on national television. And unless they won or came awfully close, they have lost at the very thing they do for a living. Given those odds, it's a wonder any of these people ever make it at all.
CJ Jacobson, the chef at newly opened Girasol in Studio City, isn't exactly a poster child for the Curse. For one, he has actually been a working chef since his original season three Top Chef appearance, most notably at Santa Monica's the Yard from 2009 to 2011.
But certain aspects of the Curse have bedeviled him. Yes, there have been "celebrity" cooking tours and consulting gigs (most recently at Mercantile in Hollywood), and even a second attempt as a contestant on the show, in season 10. But in the six years since Jacobson's original appearance, he's spent only two years in a kitchen as a full-time executive chef. Until now.
The career that led Jacobson to Top Chef is impressive on its own merits: An Orange County native, he was a professional volleyball player who nearly went to the Sydney Olympics in 2000, and a culinary school graduate who held cooking jobs at Axe, Wolfgang Puck Catering and Campanile.
Between his time at the Yard and his second go at Top Chef, Jacobson landed one of the world's most valued internships — time in the kitchen at Noma, René Redzepi's modernist Nordic restaurant in Copenhagen.
Girasol, which opened in July, feels almost as if Jacobson put all his experiences into a blender and poured out a restaurant smoothie. In some ways, it is just the sort of place one might expect a Top Chef alum to open. The Noma tenure, combined with the interesting location, caused a fair amount of buzz leading up to Girasol's debut, and while it's not the hardest reservation in town, the room has been respectably full on most nights.
The name means "sunflower" in Spanish, and the space has a masculine floral theme, if such a thing is possible: huge, white petal-like elements cover the ceiling and walls, backed by slate-gray textured tiles. A soundtrack of vague electronica plays in the dining room, giving everything that smooth throwback vibe, like a bracing pink cocktail circa 2003.
But you can see Noma's influence on Jacobson's menu, particularly if you keep in mind that the Yard, his last full-time gig, was a gastropub. With certain dishes, he manages quite a trick, presenting the aesthetic of absurdly cerebral Nordic cuisine to neighborhood diners in Studio City.
So the gorgeous "beets and berries" appetizer consists of florets of leaves and herbs placed artfully in a base of whipped goat cheese along with beets and various berries. It looks like a masterpiece, yet it's a beet-and–goat cheese salad, albeit an intensely aromatic and enjoyable version.
Hamachi with citrus also brings the naturalist beauty. It arrives in a semicircle on the plate, the raw, cubed fish mingling with mandarin, macadamia nuts, finger lime and verbena. Despite all that citrus — preserved grapefruit makes an appearance as well — the fish tastes bare and fresh, almost unadorned in its simplicity.
Some concessions are made for those seeking comfort food: There's an appetizer of rustic and very good meatballs, and a dried fava bean puree served with sloppy Joe–style chorizo and warm grilled flatbread for scooping.
The entrees are reasonably priced at $16 to $26, other than a $38 steak, and pork satay, roast chicken and bruschetta all make appearances. Jacobson is hedging his bets a little, offering safe choices for a more conservative crowd while allowing glimpses of his time in the wilds of Denmark to be seen here and there.
Blunders in actual cooking seem strange, given some of this food's careful complexity, yet they're not uncommon. A piece of sockeye salmon, which we were assured would be cooked medium rare, came out dry and extremely well-done. I can imagine how the summery corn, Champagne grapes, kale puree and tomato water on the plate might meld with that rich, buttery fish if there were any yield or fat left in it — as it was, the textures seemed discordant: sparse salad under parched flesh.
I've dined at Girasol twice, and I actually feel this review was spot on. They did have good service and had no problem re-doing an octopus dish that we thought was a bit tough. I don't know why all the commenters are so angry... I read this as quite a favorable review with honest observations and hopes for its future.
I didn't really love the place, but I hope that doesn't mean angry citizens in the Valley will lambaste me for my poor taste. Food and value are subjective... Why is it so hard to believe that not everyone's taste is perfectly aligned with yours?
I find many critics today lack passion, experience & overall understanding of their job. While many "critics" use their position to expand their personal agenda to become well-known others actually have the depth of knowledge and experience to make thoughtful references to other restaurants.
Firstly I have not seen such superfluous information in an "essay" since I was proof reading a 10 year old's 1,000 word report on Africa where they spent more than half the words explaining that one needs to pack clothes. The idea that the reviewer spent the first part of the review talking about Top Chef makes me wonder if LA Weekly pays her by the word.
With that out of the way let's take a look at the first of many ridiculous assertions made by the "reviewer":
"Gorgeous "beets and berries" appetizer consists of florets of leaves and herbs placed artfully in a base of whipped goat cheese along with beets and various berries. It looks like a masterpiece, yet it's a beet-and–goat cheese salad"
Before I move on I must make my feelings very clear, because subtly is lost on you, YOU ARE A DONKEY!!
That said, to call a dish "gorgeous" & a "masterpiece" and then say "well it's just beet and goat cheese salad" is just laughable. Have you eaten at Noma, Jules Verne, or Eleven Madison Park? Well I have and the difference between the mundane (ala your mommy making beets and goat cheese) and the elevated culinary artistry is the use of "florets and herbs" the subtle flavors or unexpected marriages of ingredients is what elevates the obvious into artistry. For instance, Chef Humm takes tomatoes, herbs and edible flowers to create a tomato tea or for people like you; he just made Tomato Soup.
Why is the location of the restaurant even a discussion? Did you ask for the salmon & lamb back to the kitchen to be re-done to your specifications? Most experienced dinners know that it is perfectly acceptable to return any dish so that the kitchen has an opportunity to make it right.
Your review was more about Top Chef than discussing the fact that very few chefs in LA are cooking at this level. It is a shame that restaurant criticism has deteriorated to the point where a chef’s appearance on a TV show outweighs your honest restaurant experience.
I would have to agree with the the other comment. We finally get an AUTHENTIC and tasteful restaurant in the valley and we get a wanna-be "foodie" columnist making crude and quite honestly tacky comments. Everyone has the right to their own opinion but I truly feel that one needs to experience Girasol restaurant themselves in order to see what all the buzz is about. It stems from the minute you walk in the restaurant when you are greeted by kind hostesses to wonderful servers who are educated on the menu and deliver an impeccable dining experience and of course the Chef who truly puts time and love into every dish.
I dine here A LOT and I see time from time the Chef going to the guests tables to simply say "hello" and see how their dining experience was. He is down to earth and from what I and others have experienced, Chef truly loves what he does. Not only does the food taste fresh and "mouth watering" every single time but the presentation is impressive. This restaurant is unique in every way.WOW! As a local Studio City diner, I am shocked how distasteful this review is! WE LOVE THIS PLACE! We used to live and dine in Hollywood and there is nothing like this there. This article is just a pretentious OPINION of some wanna-be "foodie" columnist! This place is breathtaking, mouthwatering and unlike the personality of this stuffy, "journalist" is relaxed and full of flavor!
PLEASE DO NOT base your opinion on this ridiculous article and go try it for yourself!
~Ms. Food
Thanks for the review of the perils of the TV show, not exactly a great representation of focus on your part. As a native Angeleno I want you to know that this review was so inept that I signed up for an account just to respond to your babble. Girasol has delivered and continues to deliver consistently imaginative and beautifully prepared food. The chefs attention to the details, texture and the compilation of a dish is represented in everything that is put in front of you. His food is fresh, imaginative and leaves you wondering what other treats he has up his sleeve.
I see you have referred to blunders in the kitchen, i certainly hope that while preparing this article you didn't find it necessary to use spell-check as it is always easy to get things right EVERY time.
I encourage you to dine and rethink your position as I think it is completely flawed.,again at what is one of the best restaurants in Los Angeles, and not just the 818
I am so happy to finally see an honest review of Girasol. It has been so incredibly overhyped by other media. Girasol is an okay restaurant with hit and miss dishes. The fried snapper is the highlight. Other food is semi-tasty at best. And the desserts? Not worth the money for how small and unimpressive they are. Perhaps people rave because choices are so slim in the 818. If Girasol were a "city" restaurant, it would never get much attention. As an 818er myself, I would rather drive a few more miles to get a better dining experience for my money.
@johnsontran Not everyone loves this type of food & that is fine. The issue I have with the "reviewer" is talking about Top Chef in a restaurant review.
I am sure our tastes are not aligned and that is totally cool.
@cat123 would have to disagree and say that choices are NOT slim in the Valley. Ventura Blvd is filled with many trendy and cute restaurants. What makes Girasol different from the rest is that it's authentic and creative. Not everyone is going to like the food and that is okay, but I felt that this columnist had much more to say about the Chef and his past on "Top Chef" than on his food. She was not focused and was just all over the place. It seemed like she just needed to fill in the gaps. If she had used a more professional approach I think people would respect her opinion, but she didn't.
Yes, this is not the "City" and indeed the Valley but I still believe if this were located in Santa Monica or somewhere busy it would still do extremely well. It just has the "it" factor. And prices at Girasol are pretty equivalent to other nice upscale dining places in the Valley. You are paying for quality food not a Jerry's Famous Deli or your local diner. It's not about the quantity but simply the quality.
In addition, I don't think it has been overhyped at all. Like any new restaurant in town you want the word to get out and I think they have done a pretty outstanding job in doing so. People in the Valley can be a tough crowd but as long as Girasol stand's its ground they will end up on top.
@cat123 How many times have you dined at Girasol? Which dishes were hit or miss?
Which desserts have you had? They are not worth the money because of the portion size? I just want to make you aware that not every "dining establishment" has the Super Size option. (I know not fair but true)
Which plates were "semi-tasty"? What the hell is semi-tasty?
Where are you going "a few more miles" away to get a better dining experience? Los Angeles has never delivered a "dining experience" in the way say Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée delivers.
I look forward to your engaging response.
@madd74 @johnsontran agreed! No one has the same taste, BUT, cutting down a passionate Chef who, if you have followed his work or know him at all, is VERY serious, passionate and absolutely in love with being a chef, is just tacky in my opinion. Especially since as in any art form, you go out on a limb and put yourself out there, regardless of critics opinions. Good for you Chef CJ, keep up the amazing work! :-)
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