For all the chaos created by the long waits and the crowded room, the staff here carry themselves with exceptional poise and grace. From their handling of the original phone call I made to understand the seating and reservation system, to the sunny hostess who helped me figure out a strategy to get in on a Friday night, to the service inside the restaurant, the staff was nothing but helpful and happy, their calmness working to soothe customers who might otherwise be stressed by the rowdy room. The look and feel of the place and the attitude of the people working there go a long way toward making this an exceptionally pleasant place to eat.

So, while I found a lot of the plated food a bit lacking, there are plenty of good reasons to eat here. Fishing With Dynamite is exceptionally useful as an attractive spot just steps from one of L.A.'s most appealing beaches, a place to sit and eat raw seafood and sip a glass of chablis. Whether you want to wait two hours for the privilege is another matter entirely.

Reach the writer at brodell@laweekly.com.

PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

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Fishing with Dynamite

1148 Manhattan Ave.
Manhattan Beach, CA 90266

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: South Bay

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See more of Anne Fishbein's photos of Fishing With Dynamite.

FISHING WITH DYNAMITE | Two stars | 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach | (310) 893-6299 | eatfwd.com | Sun.-Wed.. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Thurs.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. | Small plates, $7-$18, seafood prices $2.50 (for a single clam) to $145 for a seafood platter that serves 4-5 | Full bar | Street parking, city-run valet during dinner

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