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The strength in the cocktail menu helps somewhat with the weakness of the wine list but only to a point. Cocktails are delicious with lots of food, and work particularly well with littlefork's fried options, but seafood's greatest mate is wine, and there's not much wine to be had here. There's a pale rosé from Provence that suffices, a Hugo Gruner Veltliner if you're looking for crispness, but I wish there was more variety, more than four whites and five reds — more in general.

As an act of nostalgia and devotion, littlefork fills its niche nicely. It also fills another (perhaps more important?) niche: that is, an almost low-key place for non-douchey cocktail consumption in the heart of Hollywood. And when the gifts from our very own ocean simply won't cut it, some briny Long Island oysters and that fantastic lobster roll ought to satiate anyone who wants what, until recently, L.A. couldn't have.

Crispy head cheese at littlefork in Hollywood
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Crispy head cheese at littlefork in Hollywood

Reach the writer at brodell@laweekly.com.

littlefork | 2 stars | 1600 Wilcox Ave., Hlywd. | (323) 465-3675 | littleforkla.com. | Dinner: 5-10 p.m., daily. Bar open late, Tues.-Sat. | Entrees, $22-$28 | Full bar | Valet parking ($6 during week, $10 on weekends).

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7 comments
Will Gara
Will Gara

Lobster roll. Not the mayo kind but the warm, buttery ones from Connecticut.

Nia Nguyễn
Nia Nguyễn

The only thing I'm familiar with New England is its clam chowder.

 
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