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Red Medicine: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 

Thursday, Feb 28 2013
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Eating chef Jordan Kahn's hyper-conceptual creations out of a terrarium, as many dishes at Red Medicine are served, is nothing if not fun. But it's especially rewarding when what's at the bottom of that glass globe is as perplexing and delicious as brook trout roe under rice pudding with quince and sea herbs. The terrarium is no gimmick. OK, maybe it is, but it's a gimmick with a purpose — many of these Vietnamese-influenced dishes are landscapes as much as food. Miniature tundras of unfolding flavors, they're as beautiful to look at as they are delicious. Kahn's not-yet-3-year-old restaurant is still as ambitious as ever, the menu as full of architectural dishes like charred uni with cauliflower custard, Chinese sausage and plantain, or young turnips with roasted banana, banana vinegar and fermented black bean. Kahn's origins as a pastry chef are on full display in the way he conceives of dishes, in his attention to presentation and in the fact that the desserts here are incredible. There's a lot of whiz-bang cooking happening right now in L.A., but very little of it is as successful and enjoyable as the offerings at Red Medicine. 8400 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills; (323) 651-5500, redmedicinela.com. Daily, 6-11 p.m.; bar and bar menu nightly until 2 a.m. Plates $9-$36. Full bar.


Besha Rodell's Introduction

click to enlarge PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
  • PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

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Anne Fishbein's Photography

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The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

Reach the writer at brodell@laweekly.com

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