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Providence: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 

Thursday, Feb 28 2013
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There is a particular kind of alchemy that takes place (casually, nightly) at Providence, Michael Cimarusti's Melrose Avenue seafood palace. Because amid the white tablecloths and the relative peace and quiet, the nicely dressed patrons and the faint purr of the German-engineered cheese cart, there is the kind of exquisitely executed food that can make you gasp with astonishment. How exactly does a dice of raw scallop and a nasturtium leaf become a taco; a composite of kampachi and petals and citrus become a jewelry box in a bowl? Have another of the excellent cocktails and toast whatever rough magic goes on behind these kitchen doors. Seven and a half years into its tenure, Providence still feels like the chef is enjoying himself as much in his kitchen as he does on his (few) days off, when he can sometimes — especially if the halibut are in season — be found fishing off Catalina with his kitchen crew. 5955 Melrose Ave., Hlywd.; (323) 460-4170, providencela.com. Mon.-Fri., 6-10 p.m.; Sat., 5:30-10 p.m.; Sun., 5:30-9 p.m.; lunch Fri., noon-2:30 p.m. Three-course prix fixe menu starts at $85. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

click to enlarge PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
  • PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

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The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

Reach the writer at ascattergood@laweekly.com

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