Park's BBQ: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 | 99 Restaurants | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly
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Park's BBQ: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 

Thursday, Feb 28 2013
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If the walls full of celebrity photos (from Korean pop stars to Keanu Reeves) at Park's BBQ don't tip you off, if the Michelin-"recommended" plaque doesn't clue you in, if the lines out the door don't give you some idea that you're somewhere special, well, the smell ought to do it. The source is beef fat, or, more precisely, smoky delicious meat smoke, which starts at your table after you order and permeates the place, although you'll never actually see a trace of it thanks to the high-powered fans above each table. The waitress smears a cube of suet across the gas-and-charcoal grill and then the scent progresses, perhaps to galbi, or prime rib-eye, or marinated pork belly that comes as a hefty strap of meat to be snipped with the waiters' mighty shears as it cooks. You can splurge on American Wagyu, which starts at $55 for the boneless short ribs and goes up into the $70 range for other cuts; its marbled, fatty goodness makes it seem worth every penny. There's a beef tartare mixed with egg, pine nuts and julienned pear that comes with lovely, paper-thin folds of cucumber for scooping, and a kimchi pancake that has more in common, spiritually speaking, with a New York cheese pizza than any Italian joint in town. (This is a compliment.) But the reason you're here, the reason Park's is still the standard-bearer for Korean barbecue in this town, is the meat. 955 S. Vermont Ave., Koreatown; (213) 380-1717. Daily, 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Entrees $25-$35. Beer, wine, soju and sake.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

click to enlarge PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
  • PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Location Info

Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

Reach the writer at brodell@laweekly.com

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