Kiyokawa: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 | 99 Restaurants | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly
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Kiyokawa: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 

Thursday, Feb 28 2013
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The menu at Kiyokawa doesn't explain why you might seek out this small, unassuming sushi bar tucked among the nail salons and boutiques of Robertson in Beverly Hills: There are the requisite sushi rolls, standard nigiri options, and some lunch specials. It's the chalkboard beside the sushi bar that should provide a hint as to why we're so enamored of this place. There, the special fish of the day is displayed: striped jack, ocean trout, Japanese mackerel. The live shrimp will arrive at your table still alive, the meat removed, the head still moving as it pokes out of the ice. Later, when you're done with your sashimi, sushi chef/owner Satoshi Kiyokawa might fry that head for you, or make a soup out of it. The omakase is the way to go for dinner — at lunch, ask for a sashimi plate made up of the best fish of the day, give them a price, and make sure you get a serving of rice on the side. The wasabi comes freshly grated on shark skin; the ginger is pickled in-house. The Japanese mackerel glistens, its perfect balance of freshness and oil making it hard to move on, the lingering taste worth savoring. 265 S. Robertson Ave., Beverly Hills; (310) 358-1900. Mon.-Fri., noon-3 p.m.; Mon.-Sat., 6-10 p.m. Omakase, around $88. Beer, wine and sake.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

click to enlarge PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
  • PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

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The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

Reach the writer at brodell@laweekly.com

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