ink.: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 | 99 Restaurants | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly
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ink.: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 

Thursday, Feb 28 2013
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In ink., Michael Voltaggio has created a restaurant that's both broody and as fun as they come, both serious business and pure playtime. The room is all dark and moody, its one bright spot the long, glowing, open kitchen with Voltaggio at the helm, facing outward to survey his domain. The food is coddled and contorted — squid forced into pastes and ribbons, horseradish frozen and shaved, almonds and bonito transformed into "sand," which holds blistered shishito peppers. The result is visually stunning and pleasant-tasting, with most of the delight and surprise coming from the way these plates look rather than how they taste. Nonetheless, every dish here is a new adventure, every cocktail a balancing act: Will concept or flavor win in the end? Often, both prevail. Voltaggio is one of L.A.'s most interesting, boundary-pushing chefs, and ink. is one of our most fascinating restaurants. 8360 Melrose Ave., Beverly Grove; (323) 651-5866, mvink.com. Sun.-Thurs., 6-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6 p.m.-mid. Entrees $10-$29. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

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The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

Reach the writer at brodell@laweekly.com

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