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Guelaguetza: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 

Thursday, Feb 28 2013
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Stop by Guelaguetza on a Friday night and you're greeted by quite the party. The restaurant, which has been at the forefront of L.A.'s Oaxacan food scene for the last 20 years, is a sprawling enterprise, and on weekends it's packed with families, mainly sharing the giant platters of memelas, chorizo, tasajo and cecina, fried pork ribs and more. An ancient-looking man may be playing the xylophone onstage with his band, with kids and grandparents bouncing appreciatively in their seats to the music. There's a lot of bang for the buck in those platters, but you'd be remiss to come here and leave without trying the mole; this may be the most famous mole in the country. You'll want the negro, and you'll be rewarded with a dark, bitter, gloriously slick mole — get it with chicken or chorizo. Recently, the estofado, made with tomatillos, chiles, raisins and olives, has won our hearts. It's utterly seductive in its sweet and funky depth. You can get goat barbacoa on the weekends, swimming in a deeply rich chili sauce and served with giant, homemade tortillas. There are also fruity, smoky mezcal cocktails to toast the celebration happening around you. 3014 W. Olympic Blvd., Mid-City; (213) 427-0608, ilovemole.com. Mon.-Fri., 9 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat., 8 a.m.-11 p.m.; Sun., 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Entrees $8.95-$13.95. Full bar.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

Location Info

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Anne Fishbein's Photography

The Google Map

 

The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

Reach the writer at brodell@laweekly.com

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