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El Huarache Azteca: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 

Thursday, Feb 28 2013
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A lot of love, justifiably, is shown to El Huarache Azteca's signature dish, a fried masa shell in the shape of a Whitehall rowboat with cilantro, crema, cotija cheese, beans and your choice of braised or roasted meat tucked into its hull. But you'd be remiss not to look, however briefly, beyond it — wandering eyes often are rewarded at this Highland Park fixture. You may find inspiration from the neighbor to your left, taking quick spoonfuls of menudo, or the family of three generations just ahead enjoying a round of tacos de cabeza and the daily special. We recently found ourselves charmed by the costillas de puerco with salsa roja: an entree of pork ribs grilled, then simmered in a tomato sauce emblematic of the reverence that Mexican cuisine accords such sauces. Each order comes paired with foil-wrapped, warm corn tortillas alongside the classic duo of rice and refried beans. 5225 York Blvd., Highland Park; (323) 478-9572, elhuaracheaztecala.com. Daily, 8 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Entrees $3.50-$8.99.

 

Besha Rodell's Introduction

click to enlarge PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
  • PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

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The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

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