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Hatfield's: 99 Essential Restaurants 2013 

Thursday, Feb 28 2013
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There are myriad beautiful things about Hatfield's, Quinn and Karen Hatfield's comfortably large Melrose Avenue restaurant. The enormous, open kitchen that occupies the center like a performance space; the pretty hanging pots; the rows of lowered heat lamps almost like lanterns; the Michel Richard–designed pastry station; the small battalion of toque-wearing chefs working in the kind of unison that would have made Escoffier proud. Then there is the stunning food, an aesthetic experience of the highest order: Quinn's beautifully articulated plates of 36-hour beef rib "pastrami"; or charred Spanish octopus; or the yellowtail, prosciutto and quail egg "croque madame," which regulars refuse to allow the owners to take off the menu. And whatever happens, however much you eat, do not forgo dessert. Just order whatever Karen Hatfield is making — maybe the justly lauded beignets or the chocolate tart. Or just close your eyes and point. 6703 Melrose Ave., Hlywd.; (323) 935-2977, hatfieldsrestaurant.com. Mon.-Thurs., 6-10 p.m.; Fri., 6-10:30 p.m.; Sat., 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 5:30-9:30 p.m. Entrees $32-$36. Full bar.

 

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The 99 Essential Restaurants List:

A-Frame
Alma
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Attari Sandwich Shop
Bäco Mercat
Bar Amá
The Bazaar
Bestia
BierBeisl
Bludso's
Cacao Mexicatessen
Canelé
La Casita Mexicana
Cemitas Poblanas Elviritas
Chichen Itza
Chung King
Cole's
Coni'Seafood
Cube Cafe & Marketplace
Din Tai Fung
Eva
Father's Office
Fred 62
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Go's Mart
Il Grano
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Hatfield's
Ha Tien Quan
Hawkins House of Burgers
Hayat's Kitchen
El Huarache Azteca
Huckleberry
The Hungry Cat
ink.
Jar
Jitlada
JTYH Heavy Noodle II
Kang Ho Dong Baekjong
Kiriko
Kiyokawa
Kogi Truck
Krua Siri
L&E Oyster Bar
Langer's
Little Dom's
Lucques
Ludo Truck
Lukshon
Mariscos Jalisco
Matsuhisa
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Milo and Olive
Mo-Chica
Musso & Frank
Nem Nuong Ninh Hoa
Nickel Diner
Night + Market
Oinkster
Osteria Mozza
Pann's
Pa-Ord Noodle
El Parian
Park's BBQ
Philippe the Original
Picca
Pink's
Pizzeria Mozza
Playa
Pollo a la Brasa
Providence
R&R Soul Food
Ración
Red Medicine
Ricky's Fish Tacos
Rivera
Rocio's Moles de los Dioses
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Savoy Kitchen
Sea Harbour
Shanghai No. 1 Village Seafood
Soban
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
The Spice Table
Superba Snack Bar
Tacos Leo
The Tasting Kitchen
Tavern
Tsujita LA
Vincenti Ristorante
Wurstküche
Zam Zam Market

Reach the writer at ascattergood@laweekly.com

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