Eat+Drink
Le Ka, Voila!
Remi Lauvand's new downtown spot has much to recommend it -- but tries to do just a bit too much
And I can't help but think that some of the less impressive dishes here are simply a product of a kitchen and chef spread too thin by having to provide all things to all people — a menu that's too large and disparate in its aspirations. I know in my heart that Lauvand knows damn well how to cook a rabbit. Yet, on the night I had it, the rabbit was dried out rather than falling apart in braised glory.
There's also a real service issue at Le Ka. One night we'd been at our table for only 35 minutes, and were a third done with our fantastic bottle of Savagnin from the Jura region, by the time all of our food — three courses — had been dumped on the table. Another night, with a sparsely seated dining room, we were treated to the longest tableside monologue I've ever heard, as well as the boldest upselling attempts ("I really recommend the fried chicken as an appetizer. No? OK. You know that fried chicken would make a great transition from that appetizer to the entree you ordered. No? How about a side of mushrooms with your bone marrow then? No? You sure you don't want to try that fried chicken?"). After that, we were left for outrageous stretches of time with no water, no food, no drinks, not much of anything. The guy did return at one point to deliver a horoscope joke, bada-bing style, as if to say, "I'd rather be doing stand-up. No, really." He didn't bother to clear our dishes after the punch line. The meal took more than three hours.
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Pork short ribs
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Le Ka
800 W. 6th St.
Los Angeles, CA 90017
Category: Restaurant > Fine Dining
Region: Downtown
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Le Ka is a restaurant that is useful for many things: The cocktails are good, the vibe is right. You could have your own meet-cute at this bar, or a good first date at least. The wine list, put together by Donny Sullivan and overseen by Diane Clemenhagen, is impressive without being overwhelming. If you're entertaining a group of international businessmen, all with expensive tastes but different desires, everyone should be able to find something to their liking on this menu — just hope they also like verbose waiters. But I get the feeling that a slightly more focused menu or a slightly smaller venue would put Lauvand's talents in a better light.
LE KA | 800 W. Sixth St., dwntwn. | (213) 688-3000 | Lunch, Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; happy hour, Mon.-Fri., 3-7 p.m.; dinner, daily 5-11 p.m.; late night, Mon.-Sat., 11 p.m.-2 a.m., Sun. 11 p.m.-mid. | Reservations accepted | Full bar | $7 valet parking
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