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Bestia Does It Best

This new Italian restaurant on the edge of downtown does everything well

The wine list, overseen by young, enthusiastic sommelier Maxwell Leer, is hardly encyclopedic, but for its size it does provide a fun range, from straightforward to downright geeky. I do wish the restaurant offered more choices by the glass — two whites (both too light for this food) and three reds make the glass option a tad unwelcoming.

Genevieve Gergis, Menashe's wife and co-owner, is in charge of desserts, and like Menashe in his role as chef/owner, this is her first position as pastry chef (she also helped with the space's design). You'd never suspect a newbie, though — the wicked kick of salt in a chocolate budino tart is sophisticated without being showy.

Creme fraiche panna cotta with mixed winter citrus and Meyer lemon cookies
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Creme fraiche panna cotta with mixed winter citrus and Meyer lemon cookies

On a recent evening, we ordered the chestnut zeppole with coffee gelato, called "coffee and donuts" on the menu. Gergis came to the table to apologize. "I have five or six orders of zeppole ahead of yours, and I only have one little fryer." We didn't care — we had wine to drink, conversation to have. But when they came, the zeppole were good — pillowy, crunchy with sugar, addictive. I can easily see them becoming a signature of this restaurant.

If the crowds continue to show up at Bestia, Gergis is going to need a bigger fryer.

BESTIA | Three stars | 2121 Seventh Place, dwntwn. | (213) 514-5724 | bestiala.com | Tues.-Thurs. & Sun., 6-11 p.m.; Fri. & Sat., 6 p.m.-mid. | Reservations recommended | Full bar | Valet parking

See more of Anne Fishbein's photos of Bestia.

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1 comments
micahrzehnder
micahrzehnder

Out of how many stars is the rating? Three? Four? Five?

The review sounds almost five star, but it's rated only three...

 
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