Hipster Heaven

Cortez might seem like a parody of current food trends -- if only it weren't so good

Comments (0) By Besha Rodell Thursday, Dec 13 2012

Ah, but all was forgiven when, later, dessert arrived — a slice of Basque cake, a flaky, sweet, eggy vanilla and butter confection that disappeared in seconds. At brunch, a persimmon pudding also is offered for dessert, and I hope they make it available on the dinner menu as well.

The drinks list is short and idiosyncratic, with a lot of high-acid, food-friendly wines. There are some truly fun selections, like a sparking Vouvray and a low-alcohol, off-dry Austrian cider that was perfect for brunch.

PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Line-caught Corvina sea bass with chermoula and turnip greens

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Owners, servers and hosts are all exuberantly friendly, another factor that saves the place from accusations of being too trendy or pretentious.

I've already heard grumblings through the grapevine about Cortez's simplicity, its seared-fish-on-a-plate ethos. But there's a real place for cooking like this, under very specific circumstances. It can't be too pompous. The produce must be immaculate. Great thought must be given to contrast and balance.

At Cortez, all of these elements come together beautifully to give the cuisine of figs on a plate (or flatbread on a plate, or beautiful greens with one sharp, creamy, perfectly seared piece of cheese on a plate) one more reason to be celebrated.

See more of Anne Fishbein's photos of Cortez.