The Italian Job

Pasadena’s Trattoria Neapolis aims for the fences, but the food doesn’t live up to the setting

Comments (0) By Besha Rodell Thursday, Oct 11 2012

Perhaps even more impressive than the cocktails or the wine is the beer selection, simply because it's so rare to have such serious consideration and space given to these types of beers in a restaurant setting. I was especially wowed by the Italian bottled beers. Try the 750ml bottle of Nora from Turin, brewed with ginger, myrrh and kamut grain, for a beautifully aromatic beer that's worthy of taking wine's place at a serious Italian meal.

For now, the best way to visit Trattoria Neapolis is to get a bite at the bar with a few drinks. You can marvel at the mirrored walls and fancy chandeliers, at the giant TVs on each side of the bar playing old Italian movies, and you can take advantage of the fantastic booze selection. You can have a pizza or something else that strikes you from the menu — if you're smart, the gnocchi.

PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Wood-grilled baby octopus

Location Info

Map

Trattoria Neapolis

336 S. Lake Ave.
Pasadena, CA 91101

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Pasadena and vicinity

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Because while the idea of California-influenced Italian sounds nice, and in some cases might work, there's a sense that Trattoria Neapolis is trying to achieve too much, and not quite getting any one thing exactly right. If the kitchen were to choose a more focused direction, my guess is that the food would fall in line with the rest of this theatrical, ambitious venture.

See more of Anne Fishbein's photos of Trattoria Neapolis.