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Twenty-four hours after my first visit to Tar & Roses, I had a pleasant lingering memory of my meal there, but I could barely remember anything I'd eaten. The food wasn't forgettable in the sense that the flavors were unremarkable; it just tasted and felt like so much else of what's out there that it was hard to distinguish. It's done very, very well, though, and Kirschner imparts more playfulness than many chefs of his generation and genre.
Kirschner is doing the food of right now, with better quality and more honesty than most. But Tar & Roses is no game changer — whether that matters to you will dictate how much you care about this restaurant. Regardless, if you can get past the hostess, you'll most likely enjoy it.
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Baby carrots, currants, chermoula creme fraiche at Tar & Roses
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Tar & Roses
602 Santa Monica Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90401
Category: Restaurant > New American
Region: Santa Monica
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TAR & ROSES | 602 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica | (310) 587-0700, tarandroses.com | Open Mon.-Sat., 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 5:30-9:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. | Beer & wine served. Street & valet parking. | Small plates $6-$12, entrées $20-62 (for a rib-eye for 2).
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