Some dishes seem to spring directly from the imagination and cross-cultural pollination of Zarate's imagination: The Quinotto, or quinoa risotto, is an obviously Italian-inspired creation with wild mushrooms and Parmesan and parsley-infused oil, and I'll bet a squirt of truffle oil as well.
Speaking of cross-cultural, I thought I detected truffle oil in the oxtail dish over trigo de mote, or a kind of wheat porridge. How else to explain that dish's intensity of savory flavor, and almost unworldly pow of meaty, brothy richness? The restaurant says no such crutch is employed, in which case this dish is a true wonder.
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Solterito, a salad of southern Peru, at Mo-Chica
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I still have a few quibbles with Mo- Chica. The wine is overpriced and underwhelming, qualitywise — stick to cocktails. I'm still not a fan of that alpaca burger. And, obviously, it's possible to have an entire meal at Mo-Chica that falls short of expectations.
But on the right night, with the right dishes, Mo-Chica is serving up loud, raucous, colorful food in a loud, colorful, raucous room that celebrates Peru, Los Angeles and the exceedingly fun intermingling of the two.
MO-CHICA | 514 W. Seventh St., dwntwn. | (213) 622- 3744 | mo-chica.com | Mon.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; 5 p.m.-mid. | Small plates, $7-$18 | Full bar | Reservations recommended | Street parking; $6.50 valet beginning at 7 p.m.
