Short Order Comes Up Short

The newish burger joint meets certain needs, but it's no must-try

Comments (0) By Besha Rodell Thursday, Aug 16 2012

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On Tuesday nights, the kitchen offers a special made with produce from the weekly "certified farmers market" held at the Original Farmers Market. Recently, a special of quail with pesto over grilled veggies was upscale picnic food — simple, fresh, tasty. I also liked a vinegary bean salad that comes as a side, and wished for a few more nods to the plant-based food groups. But I suppose that's not really the point here.

One of Short Order's big draws is a serious drinks program to go with your burger and fries, as well as not-so-serious alcoholic milkshakes. That said, I have no idea who wants Apple Jack or Old Grand Dad 114 in their dessert shake, but one answer is: Not me. I found the boozy shakes to be both too strong and too sweet, the novelty not worth the actual experience of drinking the thing. (My kid's nonalcoholic chocolate malt was great, though.)

PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Nancy's Backyard Burger

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Short Order

6333 W. 3rd St.
Los Angeles, CA 90036

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Hollywood

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Regular cocktails are far more appealing, especially the Hotel Nacional, a rum-and-pineapple drink that's summery but not too sweet. I had to try the Kitty Cocktail — a mix of Zinfandel, ginger, lime and seltzer — because it sounded so wrong. It tasted an awful lot like bubble bath, but unlike the "adult shake," I finished it. There's also a rotating list of craft beers on tap, and a wine list that far outshines what can be had at most burger spots.

There's no doubt Short Order is a lot of fun. The rooftop, which feels part designer tree house and part swanky ship deck, is a lovely place to sit on these summer evenings. And in any other town, the fantastic bread, interesting drinks and messy burger fun Short Order delivers might be a revelation.

But in Los Angeles, where Americana and burgers are integral to the city's identity, where many of the places that inspire Short Order's nostalgia are still going strong, it's hard to paint this as a must-try. Unless, of course, you have a mother-in-law to ply with alcoholic milkshakes. In that case, Short Order fulfills a very serious need.