But these flaws are a small price to pay for a neighborhood restaurant that does simple luxury incredibly well. The salmon is nice, the lobster spaetzle fun. But it's the branzino, fresh salads and oysters I'll return for.
The oyster selection continues to offer surprises — one night, teeny, nutty metallic Olympias show up; another, something special and weird from Massachusetts. A dozen of those on a plate, frigid and gleaming, a glass of rosé, and the laid-back nightlife of Silver Lake swirling around you, it's hard not to feel soothed and renewed, and immensely grateful for a neighborhood restaurant done right.
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Grilled barbecue oysters
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L&E OYSTER BAR | 1637 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake | (323) 660-2255 | leoysterbar.com | Mon.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m. | Entrées $15-23 | Reservations not accepted | Beer and wine | Street & valet parking ($5)